Whistler for all comers
Whistler is so entrenched as an Australian rite of passage that it has been affectionately dubbed Whistralia. The appeal? Friendly Canadians mixed with an army of Aussies, and a powdery mountain that dreams are made of.
I recall a local on a chairlift telling me, "You've come in a bad season". But for keen Australian skiers and snowboarders, nothing compares to the fluffy, velvet snow that coats the mountains of Whistler and Blackcomb.
Even a bad season is good, and that's exactly why so many travellers return to these slopes.
GREEN RUNS
There's no denying that having the ability to ski or snowboard will sweeten your time in Canada, but if you are hopeless on skis, there are plenty of things to keep you busy. If you want to learn how to carve up the slopes, the best way to start is with a lesson.
And in all probability it will be an Aussie ski instructor who will teach you how to stop, go, turn and slow. A few hours each day and you'll be cavorting across the slopes in no time.
If falling on your bum until you learn to stand up isn't your idea of a holiday, take a wander through Whistler Village. In wintertime, the village looks like something out of a frosted Christmas card. There are shops, great pubs and restaurants, and the Village 8 Cinema for off-the-slope entertainment.
Keep with the winter theme and try any number of activities that require zero skiing ability. Snow tubes, tobogganing and horse-drawn sleigh rides around the village are a great place to start for that breathtaking winter experience.
BLUE RUNS
These are the way to go when you've got a few ski seasons under your belt, and know how to carve up some testing mountain runs. Blue runners can expect an intermediate snow experience of the highest standards, with everything from mountain-guided tours to freestyle terrain parks.
Whistler Blackcomb boasts more than 200 runs, with over half of these aimed at intermediate-level skiers. Linked for the first time in 2009, Whistler and Blackcomb can both be accessed throughout the day with the ease of the Peak 2 Peak Gondola. Hold out for the elusive glass bottom gondola, which gives you a glimpse of the runs below, as well as a 360 degree panorama of the mountains.
Newcomers to the revered slopes can skip the lessons, and opt for one of the free, guided tours with a mountain host. These tours will give intermediate skiers and snowboarders the chance to see the mountain through the eyes of their expert chaperone.
Tours operate on both mountains at 11.30am everyday throughout peak season (December to April) and meet at the top of the Whistler Gondola or Solar Coaster Express on Blackcomb.
BLACK RUNS
For the diehard snow-goers, Fresh Tracks is something you won't want to miss. Jump on the Whistler Village Gondola at 7:15am before the rest of the village even wakes up, and head to the Roundhouse Lodge for a mountain-sized breakfast buffet. Then hit the slopes for fresh, untouched powder or perfectly groomed corduroy, and be the first to carve your tracks into the snow.
There's nothing quite like feeling alone on 82 square kilometres of skiable terrain. You can buy Fresh Tracks tickets in advance or on the night before, with weekdays being the best time to avoid larger crowds or sold out tickets.
There are stacks of opportunities to take your skiing to the next level, and on one of the most popular and prestigious mountains in the world, why do anything else? Whistler Heli-Skiing is the pinnacle of Canada's skiing experience, with exclusive rights to 173 glaciers and 475 runs.
Strong intermediates to seasoned experts get the chance to shred up terrain no-one else sees, and take a professional heli-ski guide to the danger zones of Whistler.
For something a little less extreme, the Backcountry Adventures might be more up your alley. Experienced guides take private or group bookings to the back runs of the mountain, building your awareness and techniques in hidden backcountry terrain.
OFF THE SLOPES
At the end of the day, whether you've been carving tracks in backcountry or wandering around the silvery streets of the village, it's time to find your fellow Aussies and head to the local watering hole. For those suffering separation anxiety after leaving the slopes, the best place to head is Garibaldi Lift Co, or GLC to the locals.
The cavernous bar is a local favourite, and by local I mean Aussies. The closest bar to the slopes, GLC invites travellers into its cosy lounge for a few drinks and a meal overlooking the mountain. The patio is an all-season Mecca for those in the know, and is kid-friendly until about eight.
Past this point, things get a bit more rowdy, with good music and an even better atmosphere to meet other snow-enthusiasts. Park your skis out front, sip on a Canadian brew, and enjoy the winter wonderland that surrounds you. Whistler Blackcomb is definitely one for the bucket list.
Air Canada has flights to Vancouver starting from $1920.
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