India’s secret state

India’s secret state

India is not known for its eco credentials. Travellers will conjure its teeming cities, congested traffic and smog as a first impression. But India’s 22nd state is contradicting it all and will have you asking whether you are in fact in India at all.

The harsh but stunning terrain of North East India can test you physically and emotionally, but will leave your client a different and more expansive person than before they arrived. Sikkim will excite the clients who have seen it all.

Sikkim is infused with Buddhist Mysticism with ancient monasteries strewn between dramatic mountains and lakes. Tourists are barely sighted, and it is all the more authentic for it.

But the reason for the shortfall in foreign footfall is that it takes some effort to get here. If your client is prepared to take that second flight beyond the major tourist hubs of Delhi and Mumbai and then drive 124 kilometres along some fairly rocky roads, the rewards are isolation, authenticity and surreal Himalayan vistas. Sikkim is not an easy place to reach and is off the typical Indian golden triangle tourist map. In many ways this is really a big part of the appeal; a genuine sense of ‘getting there’ when you arrive like travellers of old rather than hopping from one airport to another.

It feels like there is a Buddhist temple or monastery on every corner in Sikkim, and everywhere you turn you will discover monks as young as 5 or 6 either playing a game of soccer, doing their chores or checking their iPhones! It is an intriguing insight into the life of a monk and they are scattered throughout Sikkim. Each one you come across somehow appears more beautiful than the next and enveloping the spirit of Sikkim.

Among the best known and most spectacular is Rumtek monastery, which is located near the capital Gangtok. A picturesque 24 kilometre drive will take you through some of the prettiest areas in town. Rumtek is an important Buddhist pilgrimage site. When the Chinese occupied Tibet, His Holiness Gyalwa Karmapa took refuge in Sikkim.

Beyond its differences in spirituality, Sikkim is also striving to become an eco tourist must see. For those travellers that are exploring a sustainable way of life, Sikkim is a completely organic state. It is a land locked area sharing international borders on three sides with China, Bhutan and Nepal. Its history and culture reflects these same ethnic boundaries. The Sikkimese are 70 per cent Buddhist, but they all share an unwavering belief in the sanctity and spirit of the land. Despite the land being rich with minerals and forests, it is untouched by any desire for industrialisation or exploitation of its natural resources.

On our trip to Sikkim, we were welcomed inside people’s homes everywhere we went and the kindness and generosity of spirit of the Sikkimese people was humbling. Children followed us giggling and squealing with delight, women asked for photos to be taken with them, old couples invited us in for tea to their homes along the road towards the monastery. We felt embraced by open-hearted human beings, and I couldn’t speak a word of their language, nor they mine.

Our driver laughed when I wanted to lock the car door, and all homes are open and the feeling of safety was a unique travelling experience for us. The air was crystal clear and fresh, certainly not the first thing you would name when describing other parts of India.

We stayed with a family and it was their first time at hosting a homestay. They all got dressed up in their finest, made us a beautiful vegetarian meal from their vegetable garden, and despite the language barrier, we connected as people, sharing food, laughing at the children and drinking tea. It was a truly immersive experience with the locals and seeing the world through their eyes for a few days.

Sikkim is also a paradise for food with a wealth of locally grown vegetables and delectable seasonal fruit. As fairly regular meat eaters, we rarely missed it and even when it was offered, our preference was for vegetarian options.

Arrive:

The nearest airport is Bagdogra, which is 124 kilometres away. Make no mistake, this is not 124km of freeway either – the roads are unsealed, rutted and dangerous if travelled beyond 30km per hour. Private taxis are available for transport to Gangtok, but be warned, the road is treacherous and rocky. This trip is not for the faint-hearted and if your clients suffer from motion sickness, tell them to bring their travel pills. For those suitably cashed up, we would highly recommend the helicopter service from Bagdogra to Gangtok.

Stay:

The Mayfair Spa resort in Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim is set among lush greenery and mountains, the views and the central location are for the discerning client. The colonial architecture, the art, and the exceptional spa is an oasis after exploring Gangtok.

Adventure:

Like Nepal, Sikkim has an excellent backdrop of the Himalayas. The Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world standing at 8586 metres, with hiking trails that can last to 11 days. The Dzongri trek, Singali trek, or the Gochela trek are ranked among the top three for the region.

Elsewhere, Sikkim is an adrenaline junkie’s paradise, with climbing, rafting, kayaking and hang-gliding. For those in search of a unique experience and a more gentle one at that, there is a yak safari. Yaks have been domesticated for hundreds of years in Sikkim and are now being used for safaris of a more tranquil variety.

Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au

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