Postcards from the edge

People travel to Antarctica to see gargantuan glaciers and rare wildlife but the Antarctic region is also home to a collection of human-made oddities that have survived the sub-zero temperatures and gale-force winds that whip up without warning.

There are old churches, wooden shacks and a few surprisingly well-populated graveyards, but there's also a curious little post office with a fascinating history.

The southernmost public post office in the world clings to a rocky outcrop on the windblown Antarctic Peninsula.

Located on Port Lockroy's Goudier Island, the post office is a part of the British base known as 'Base A', a one-time scientific research station that now acts a museum.

Abandoned in 1962, the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) restored the neglected base in 1996, working hard to preserve the structures and period-era items contained inside.

A small team of employees live and work here in stints, spending their days giving tours and running the post office.

Only accessible by boat, Port Lockroy is a quick Zodiac ride from a cruise ship or yacht anchored nearby.

The base is a collection of small, antiquated buildings and one modern building that houses the staff.

Above, the Union Jack flies resplendently just as the sun makes an unusual appearance between the clouds (its first and only sighting of the day). After seeing nothing but walls of grey water and glaciers for days, it's an evocative yet strangely comforting sight.

Entering Base A is like receiving a warm embrace from your favourite grandparent. A bone-rattling wind may be whistling outside but inside it's a different world.

An Antiques Roadshow-style treasure trove of goods lies within. From wooden ski gear to obsolete navigational instruments and containers of ancient tobacco, room after room is enveloped in nostalgia.

The simple country kitchen could easily serve as a set for a World War II film. Chipped coffee mugs hang on rusty hooks, woolly jumpers are pegged to a makeshift twine clothesline and faded cans of food are stacked neatly just like at an old-fashioned grocery store.

The austere sleeping quarters are reminiscent of army accommodation but are brightened up considerably by the remnants of some incredibly amateur paintings of 1950s pin-up girls and screen sirens.

In the summer months, cruise ships keep the place busy as Base A is one of the few places on the Antarctic Peninsula where you can send snail mail.

A visit to the post office is a true highlight for the cruise set, although the notoriously fickle weather conditions make landing by Zodiac boat a tricky affair. Some days the conditions are just too rough to attempt a landing.

The post office also doubles as a gift shop, selling thoroughly modern items such as fleece hoodies and stuffed penguins (and yes, you can use your credit card in Antarctica). With proceeds going towards the restoration and upkeep of the base, it's a nifty way to buy some souvenirs and support the base at the same time. Plus, who could say no to the novelty of depositing a hand-written postcard into an oh-so British, fire-engine-red post box?

By the time I return home, all the postcards I sent from the icy depths of Antarctica have been received by loved ones, which is a much better strike rate compared to many other post offices around the world.

Part post office, part time capsule, Port Lockroy's Base A is an exceptionally rare find.

A throwback to an age where grizzled men toughed out brutal polar winters in the name of scientific research, this endearing piece of Antarctic history wins (and warms) the hearts of all who make it below 60 degrees south.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: LAN Airlines (lan.com) has daily flights from Sydney to Santiago connecting to Ushuaia via Buenos Aires. Return flights start from $4100.

STAYING THERE: Ocean Expeditions (ocean-expeditions.com) sails to Antarctica during the Antarctic summer departing from Ushuaia, Argentina. Berths can be booked from $11,424 per person, which includes 21 days of sailing, shared accommodation, food and beverages.

PLAYING THERE: Maintained by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust (ukaht.org), Port Lockroy's Base A is located on the Antarctic Peninsula and is only accessible by boat.

*The writer travelled at her own expense

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