A Spanish feast for the senses
Twelve years ago, Di Beach had an idea.
A decade of living in California had her conflicted.
The finer points of Californian hospitality kept her in America, but the “greed and waste” of the lifestyle left her cold.
A change was necessary, and a radical one at that.
Her destination would be the other side of the Atlantic; one of the seven villages of the Alto Genal in southern Spain.
There in Cartajima, the highest mountain village in Malaga province of Andalusia, she went to work.
Beach says her dream was to build a small bed and breakfast on the mountainside.
“Not that any bank manager would give one a loan on the basis of it,” she says.
“It was a crazy notion as I didn’t have the money to build it but somehow believed that it would be possible.”
What followed was years of challenges that comes with a single woman starting a new business – a new life – in a foreign country.
Translation problems, building problems, bureaucratic problems and challenges from the isolation.
But what she produced was the perfect getaway, for a weekend or a decade.
Set among the dramatic forested limestone landscape, with eagles circling above, Hotel Los Castanos is finally found after a cliff’s edge drive.
With potted citrus trees at the base of white walls, Beach’s creation draws you in from your first arrival.
Perfect for couples or travelling friends, this is a place where time melts away in the Andalusian sun.
Hotel Los Castanos is best utilised as a base to explore not just the local hills, but many Andalusian sights.
Beach describes the typical guest as “generally sophisticated and educated but not jetsetty”.
“We try to make everybody feel relaxed and comfortable, at home if you like, we are anxious for them to appreciate Andalucia and its treasures,” she says.
“We encourage our guests to explore the nooks of the valley – the little bars, chat with the locals, stroll the villages.”
While the experience is one of serenity, word has gotten out.
Even with just six rooms, Hotel Los Castanos ranks in Tripadvisor’s top 20 hotels in Spain.
But on the hotel’s rooftop or your own private balcony, with a glass of local rosado in hand, life moves as slow as you’d like it.
Unlike many Spanish localities, a sight-seeing tour of the town of around 200 people will not last a weekend.
Walking or mountain biking through the hills and bird-watching are the order of the day.
Cartajima is a fine base to head to any corner of Andalusia, each worthy of further exploration.
Around two hours away by car is the coastal city of Malaga, Cordoba’s rich history, the generous university town of Granada, and the majesty of Seville.
Spain’s oldest city Cadiz and Jerez, which gives sherry to the world, is also at hand.
The cliff-lined city of Ronda is even closer, where one of Spain’s most enchanting bullrings is well worth a visit.
From the coast, a short ferry trip away is Africa – the Moroccan port city of Tangier awaits, for a day trip or the start of a new adventure.
However far you choose to roam, coming home to a home-cooked dinner at Hotel Los Castanos is a delight.
North African filo-style pastries as light as a feather, tapas and locally grown meats appear on the menu during our stay.
It’s over a glass of local wine that Beach reflects on her switch from the States to southern Spain.
“Rich Americans would come and learn to be happier with less!”
So do these less-than-rich Australians.
GETTING THERE: Granada, Seville and Malaga all make entry points to explore Andalucia but require either a domestic flight or train transfer from major Spanish cities Madrid or Barcelona. Emirates and Qatar Airways fly from major Australian airports to both.
STAYING THERE: Cartajima’s Hotel Los Castanos is located 110km west of Malaga and is best accessed by car. Rooms start at around AU$130.
PLAYING THERE: Mountain goats will enjoy the exploring the Andalusian hills on foot, sporty type will try their hand at padel, a Latin version of tennis, at the local court.
* The writer travelled independently.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
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