Vintage Cape Town

A gang of bikies decked out in leather jackets and denim squat, stand and lean around a dozen Harley-Davidsons outside the five-star Cape Town waterfront hotel. It’s not as menacing a spectacle as it could be, however, as the motorbikes come with an add-on that is more granny than gangster.

It is a sidecar, whose street credibility was irreparably ruined in 1996, the year of the TV cooking program Two Fat Ladies. The sidecars themselves are a relic from World War II, and add an old school element to this trip to Cape Town. While I am destined to sit in the cushioned side capsule, I am still treated to bikie attire to ensure I look the part. This includes a black and white insignia bandanna, an old-fashioned black helmet and a broken-in red leather jacket. There’s also a blankie so, as granny would say, you don’t catch your death.

I cast it away as it’s a glorious day in Cape Town, all sunshine, seagulls and salty air. But I underestimate the Indian Ocean winds, and am reaching for the blanket as soon as the speed hits 20 kilometres an hour. The bikes do not reach more than 60 kilometres per hour, but it feels faster as you scrabble to absorb the beauty of Cape Town’s coastline. It’s an exposing way to travel and the elements will overwhelm you. The petrol fumes, the rattle of the bike and the scrunch of leather when pitted against the weather and the sea air makes for an authentic and enlivening experience.

Once back in the city, I’m in the mood to continue the time travel with an Airstream trailer park located above ground. On the rooftop of the Grand Daddy hotel in the city’s heart you will find this iconic trailer kit-out. You can take lunch, dinner or a drink next to the astro-turf trailer park in a Bedouin tent or spend the night inside the streamlined caravans.

It’s more exciting inside the trailers than outside, and that’s saying something. Local artists have designed the interior with whimsy and creativity. White polka dots on duck egg blue anoint every surface, from cushion to curtain to bench in the Dorothy Airstream. If you want a more South African flavour try the Afro-funk trailer, which has earthy, clean lines with an emphasis on textures, inspired by Cape Town street fashion. One airstream is dedicated to John and Yoko and has a guitar onboard for those who fancy a strum. Another Airstream is as girly as it gets with lace and framed lingerie. From risqu√à to innocent, the Goldilocks trailer contains a bear suit and Goldilocks outfit, just in case an impromptu fancy dress party takes your fancy.

Also on Long Street is the antique arcade. Repeat travellers to Cape Town rave about the jewellery, but the eclectic clutter of the shops are worth the visit alone. Alexandra’s Antiques is a slice of royalist England, jammed with commemorative plates, spoons and associated tat as well as porcelain, silver and glassware fit for a palace. Another arcade stalwart, Niki’s, is like an Aladdin’s Cave, selling everything from coins to stamps and jewellery. Glitterati has vintage fashion and accessories covered, but don’t be caught out, as I was, by the early closing time of 4:30 weekdays and 2pm Saturday, which necessitated a return trip.

For more retro fashion, make your way to Cape Town’s oldest vintage clothes store, Second Time Around. Established in 1972, here you will source the designs that defined the decades. The shop Afraid of Mice says it stocks the kind of garb “you wish your mother had kept for you”. Lembrancas is a vintage gem found in a restaurant and the time to go is at the end of each month when there is a sale as well as complimentary cupcakes and cocktails.

Once you have your outfit, the perfect place for a retro photo shoot is at Bo-Kaap, also known as the Malay Quarter. Houses here are painted mandarin, avocado, rose and lemon. These were the homes of slaves centuries ago and legend has it the bright paint was used to differentiate the look-alike abodes for residents after more than a few drinks. According to local guide Owen Jenka, the slaves were paid in alcohol, an occupational hazard if ever there was one.

Robben Island is the epitome of historical Cape Town, and all the more poignant following Nelson Mandela’s recent passing. It is the most uplifting prison you will ever visit, for it is here that Madiba forged theories of justice, peace and forgiveness in the apartheid era. Tours here are led by political prisoners of that time and many knew Madiba and have wonderful anecdotes to share about one of the world’s great statesmen.

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