Sleeping with McCartney

Sleeping with McCartney
By admin


On a 95 foot bamboo and coconut weave houseboat cruising the backwaters of Kerala, I wasn’t expecting a brush with pop culture history.

Turns out I slept in it.

In a bed that was the width of the room and had a curved ceiling of woven bamboo and clutched mosquito netting, a story began that gripped the British tabloids for years to come.

“Everyone knows that Paul McCartney and Heather Mills became married here,” cgh earth houseboat manager John tells me. “One night they stayed up very late and woke at midday, eating breakfast in the afternoon.”

Clearly inspired in the land of the Kama Sutra, John is convinced that they conceived their child in the bed I slept in.

He tells me this after I have already spent the night, so I know the backwater houseboats of Kerala are undeniably romantic. From the front sun bed, it is all still lakes, jasmine scent and coconut trees. Everything on board is rustic and wicker chairs are shaded by a bamboo shell that opens sideways to allow the breeze.

The captain sits cross-legged at the helm of the ship and uses a rainbow umbrella for when the sun is too much. The water runs in channels so narrow that local children race out of houses upon hearing the engine and do a jumping wave. It’s relaxed pace is set by the slow engine and laid-back captain and indulgent cook.

That cook also travelled with McCartney’s. John copies their log book entry for me, to dispel any possible doubts.

Mills’ letter signs off anticipating a third visit. “I have travelled the world but never have I experienced anything quite like India,” Mills wrote.

And within India, there is nothing quite like the state of Kerala.

Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au

india kerala

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