New Cal’s wonderful waters
Across endless turquoise-blue our Kunié captain sails, weaving our vessel among the waves and unveiling the islets that make up the ‘sparkling jewel’ of the South Seas.
And yet, huddled together on the boat, the wind whipping our faces and the ocean spraying us with brine, we can’t help but question our decision to explore the paradisical Isle of Pines so early in the morning.
It’s the cool season in New Caledonia, and while the sun does show its face this time of year, rain and chilly breezes are equally likely to make an appearance.
We grumble and grimace as we battle the elements, cackling as we watch each other get drenched and trying (unsuccessfully) to capture the moment on our cameras en route to Turtle Bay.
A loud cry snaps us out of our mischief, and we follow the pointed hand of our guide as he slows the boat, beaming at us.
“Regardez!” he repeats.
Like the most obedient of children, we jump up and dash starboard, scanning the translucent water until we spot it. We fall silent.
But it’s not the beauty of the world-heritage lagoon that holds us.
It’s the giant sea turtle coming up for air not ten metres away.
Speckled brown and flecked with white, it surfaces for but a second before resubmerging and gliding away, unperturbed by our squeals.
It’s a sight with which all New Caledonians are familiar. The archipelago, after all, is home to four species of turtle – green, loggerhead, hawksbill and leatherback – all of which we’re told are accustomed to human observers.
Image Source: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Southeast/Flickr
To us, however, the turtle remains a novelty, a riveting topic for discussion that sets the bar high for the rest of our expedition.
Our next stop on the agenda is the atoll of Nokanhui, a smudge of sand at the southern end of the Isle of Pines where we see crabs and birds and timid tricots rayés undulating in the shrub. It’s quiet, calm, and save for our boat bobbing by the shore all signs of the outside are absent.
We amble along the beach, some of us stopping for a dip; others continuing on, content to let the waves lap at their feet.
The water here is shallow but startlingly cool, an invigorating prelude to our island-style lobster lunch at the tip of the islet. We eat our fill of fresh seafood and vegetables and, somewhat incapacitated by our full bellies, doze off on the sand.
Image Source: PierreJean SCHWALM/Flickr
“Alors, on y va!”
Too soon we’re summoned back to the boat. It’s low tide, and in order to reach the vessel we have to zigzag our way around now-exposed seaweed and rocks that glisten despite the grey sky.
The spectacle of stumbling and profanity that ensues has our seafarer guide in stitches, but we eventually clamber aboard, out-of-breath but more or less unscathed.
Even so, our little troupe unanimously agrees that our ordeal entitles us to some more R&R, and we retreat to nearby Îlot Brosse, whose lofty pines and powdery white sands partly explain why locals deem the Isle of Pines ‘the closest island to Paradise’.
Uninhabited and presently devoid of other travellers, we claim the islet for our own, snorkelling and ‘sunbathing’ (it’s still overcast) and strolling along the shore.
Image Source: bilbo_en_ballade/Flickr
As our day trip draws to a close, it’s only too easy to see why New Caledonia draws over 100 000 holidaymakers each year.
With its untouched – almost utopic – reefs and atolls, exceptional biodiversity and azure waters, it’s a natural wonderland that appeals as much to those in need of an escape from urban life as it does to beach enthusiasts looking to bask in the Melanesian sun.
That said, there is more to this South-Pacific archipelago than heavenly geography.
For one, it is unmistakably French, offering tourists (particularly those from Aus. and NZ) a taste of ‘the Hexagon’ without the hassles that go hand in hand with long-haul flights.
Indeed, it is intriguing to think that just 2.5 hours from Sydney, people speak French and play pétanque, quaint colonial-style buildings recall Old-World sensibilities and baguettes, gooey cheeses and artisanal pastries abound.
And yet, as we traipse about the capital, visiting everything from the local markets to the Place des Cocotiers and the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, it becomes clear that the ancient customs and teachings of the indigenous Kanak communities are just as important in New Caledonia as its French heritage.
In fact, in alongside the official French, 28 dialectical languages are still spoken in the archipelago today.
The result?
A unique fusion of Gallic and Melanesian that permeates culture, art, cuisine and architecture, and only amplifies the charm of an already picturesque destination.
So what are you waiting for? Allez en Nouvelle-Calédonie.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
french Isle of Pines new caledonia sea turtles turtlesLatest News
Voyages celebrates 40 years at Uluru with two new immersive experiences
No plans for celebrating your 40th this year? Here's a hot tip from us.
SkyDeck: The inflight entertainment you could never have imagined
Forget those external cameras you can live stream while in the air... With SkyDeck you can check it out for yourself.
Second Boeing whistleblower dies of ‘mystery infection’
Joshua Dean died from a fast-growing mystery infection on Tuesday.
Aussie winners of American Airlines ‘Sell Your Way to the USA’ announced
Show me the money! For the winners, Sell Your Way to the USA was worth getting involved in.
ANZCRO celebrates 30th with special edition of iconic New Zealand Book
Choice bro! ANZCRO celebrates its 30th with a special edition of its iconic New Zealand Book. Chur!
Room to move at Cairns Harbourside Hotel with ‘spacious’ new family package
Moody teens can eat two-minute noodles while younger brothers and sisters get to eat free with mum and dad. Win, win!
A&K unveils lavish around the world wildlife adventure in private jet
The kind of holiday that if you need to ask the cost, you probably can't afford it.
Flight Centre and Reforest hit one million trees target early
Nice one Flight Centre, we think you've earned an early Friday knockoff.
New cruise options spearhead stacked APT 2025 program
Just in case you thought you were running out of cruise itineraries, APT's here with a fresh batch.
Travel Weekly announces a new team to helm Australia’s No.1 travel trade title
Some shameless self-promotion from us, but we thought you needed to know who's bringing you the news.
IHG reveals plans for Brisbane’s first Kimpton in 2028
Just another reason to book that trip to Brisvegas. But don't jump the gun, it's not open until 2028.
Cruiseabout’s first store in five years opens in Perth
Perth gets a break from being behind the rest of the country with the addition of the first Cruiseabout store.
ATAS complaints process acknowledges non-economic loss
A High Court case win over 'disappointment and distress' on a cruise gone wrong prompts ATIA complaints change.
Cunard previews new Queen Anne
Yep, this one does exactly what it says on the tin.
Bunnik Tours unveils latest expansion to Iceland
Just as the Icelandic vikings did many years ago, Bunnik is expanding into new territories.
Australia’s first glamping retreat turns 25
25th anniversary gifts usually come in silver. Ours comes in the way of a news story.
Embrace the journey: Traversing the world with the Shokz OpenRun
If you’ve been on the wrong side of a final call in the airport, or missed the stop on rail journey, it might be time to invest in a pair of Shokz OpenRun headphones. Originally marketed as headphones for fitness fanatics, runners or cyclists with a keen to steer clear of a prang with a car, […]
Tourism Western Australia MD Carolyn Turnbull departs
Turnbull hints her new role will see her staying in the tourism and hospitality industry and who can blame her?
DriveAway launches Brit-Euro Blitz campaign
If agents can put the foot down quick enough and get involved, there are some great prizes to be won.
Fly and Stay Free with the Great Southern
Unlike those dodgy scam phone calls you're getting more and more of, there's no strings attached to this deal.
Sober travel and TikTok guide Australian Gen Z trips
Can you call it a sober holiday if you enjoy a few glasses of red on the flight? We think yes.
Travel DAZE Exec Agenda REVEALED: top execs to speak on airline competition
As the industry reels from Bonza's implosion, it is more important than ever to ask the big questions.
TTC: Deals are driving up demand for September trips
The latest market research from TTC Tour Brands shows interest in international leisure travel remains high for 2024, with 77 per cent of Australians over 18 still planning trips this year. Notably, 28 per cent of those travellers are eyeing September for their journeys. Europe continues to be the most popular destination, with 68 per […]
Skroo says Rex will need deep pockets to fill lost Bonza slots
The door is open for Rex, and anyone else who wants to launch a regional Aussie airline...
Sno’n’Ski Holidays unveils 2025 mega famil to Colorado!
Let the games begin - this is certainly not a famil that you will want to miss!
Walk Japan launches Kyoto: Mountains to the sea walking tour
There are two types of people, one who enjoys walking on holiday and another who enjoys sipping Mojitos by the pool.
Which destination had a 48% boost in bookings following 10 MILLION TikTok views?
Here's a clue: it's not Malabar Beach.
Asher Telford appointed General Manager of SeaLink Whitsundays
Telford has plenty of reasons to smile after SeaLink doubles down and makes him GM after buying his tourism operation.
Qantas ‘working urgently’ to fix app data leak
Qantas is looking into customer reports that passengers have this morning been able to access other passengers’ personal information on the airlines app. X user Lachlan posted that he was able log into different accounts every time he opened the app. My @Qantas app logs me in to a different person each time I open […]
Hilton Expands Presence in North Queensland with the signing of Hilton Garden Inn Townsville
Heading to a North Queensland Cowboys clash? Hilton Garden Inn Townsville is set to open, but not until 2026.
Rail Europe ANZ: making dream journeys come true
Rail Europe's running a lottery! You're not going to win millions, but you might just snag a free holiday.
UPDATE: Bonza hole deepens as administrators investigate financial affairs
Administrators dig deeper as struggling airline unlikely to be revived.
Revamped Wailoaloa Beach hotel opens as Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay Resort & Spa
Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay Resort & Spa is open and ready for bookings after the first phase of a multi-million-dollar transformation. Part of IHG Hotels & Resorts’ premium collection, the transformation has seen the completion of 106 guestrooms showcasing contemporary interiors reflective of the premium Crowne Plaza brand and is a first for the […]
Nielsen Data reveals brands spending big to attract Aussie tourists
Trip A Deal, Virgin and Ignite Travel walk into a bar, blow their cash on travel advertising instead of the pokies.
Kamalaya Koh Samui clinches clutch of wellness awards
Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary & Holistic Spa has so far clinched five prestigious awards in 2024, including being inducted into the ‘Hall of Fame’ at the World Spa & Wellness Awards in London. Founders of the Koh Samui sanctuary and spa John and Karina Stewart expressed their heartfelt gratitude for the awards. “We are profoundly honoured […]
Jetstar offers 200,000 return for free flights to celebrate 20th anniversary
Jetstar hits 20 and everyone else gets the presents with free return flights to domestic and international destinations.