Stillness and speed on Hamilton Island
There is a spot at the highest point of Hamilton Island where time stands still.
Perched on a rock in semi-darkness, I’m exposed to the elements from all sides.
Yet there isn’t the slightest breeze.
Even the air particles here at Passage Peak lookout feel suspended, motionless as if afraid to disturb my calm.
A yellowy-orange mass hovering on the horizon is the only tangible movement – though this sun is in no hurry, lazily drenching the sea in a warm glow as it wakes up the Whitsundays.
Despite being 6am in winter, it isn’t cold, though there’s just enough bite to clear the nostrils and reinvigorate muted senses after too many drinks only hours ago about 200 metres below.
The 2.5-kilometre walk through scrubby bushland is no lengthy climb – the entire island is only 5km squared – though the last steep section of steps and rocks does get the heart rate up.
Bushwalking is far from the main pastime for holidayers escaping to Queensland’s Hamilton Island – the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef is more famous for swanky resorts and sailing.
But an unbeatable panorama makes this short hike one of the best ways to experience this protected region’s unique beauty.
An island staff member tells me she and her colleagues sometimes take a cheeky bottle of champagne up to the various lookouts to sit back and enjoy the view.
Her favourite walk is South East Head trail – which is exactly where I’m now headed.
Gravel crunches under my shoes as I plod back down the outdoor staircase and take a junction for another half-hour meander.
The smell of eucalyptus and occasional screech of a cockatoo are my only companions, and with not another person in sight I relish that rare feeling that I could be anywhere.
Forest soon gives way to exposed rocks and sharp cliffs that offer a clear view of the Lindeman group of islands, just one part of the wider World Heritage-listed area.
From here I have the option of cutting down through another trail to the secluded and mangroved Escape Beach, which I’m almost guaranteed to have all to myself.
But though the intrigue of a private swim beckons, time is ticking on and I need to get back to sea level for a helicopter flight.
By the time I descend, hastily down breakfast and arrive at Hamilton’s airbase, the sun is well and truly overhead.
My pilot Tim doubles as my tour guide, and as we whir into the air I’m caught off guard by the thoroughly postcard-esque nature of what’s below.
The sea, only hours ago a rustic orange, is now clear as last night’s vodka with a brilliant turquoise finish.
Tim points out Escape Beach, which only makes me wish I’d had more time on my solo expedition.
But then I’m distracted by a humpback whale and its calf frolicking below.
We swoop to get closer, doing donuts around the pair, which are in their own world of breaching and flipper-waving.
Cruising over Whitsunday Island and its iconic Whitehaven Beach, Tim laughs at how his job description often extends to rolling out a massive “Will you marry me?” sign on its fine silica sand.
In preparation for a standard scenic-flight proposal – of which there are many – the chopper pilots need to make a separate trip to Whitehaven to set the sign in place before returning with an anxious man and his unsuspecting girlfriend.
On occasions when the guy is too nervous, they also prompt the actual proposal by pointing out the beach’s new, less-natural addition.
Once complete, the joy ride continues along the 7km stretch of sand to the gorgeous Hill Inlet, a swirly mosaic of colours created by sand and water amid shifting tides.
Then it’s on to the famous Heart Reef.
Discovered by a seaplane pilot about 40 years ago, this tiny heart-shaped reef is the focal point for many tourists.
As we trace the same route, I reason that despite the outrageous cliche of the whole procedure, there aren’t many spots more stunning to tell someone you love them.
Though frankly if it were me, I’d prefer such a gesture overlooking the next reef we see, which is awesomely shaped like a giant alien’s head.
We circle over Hook Reef and Hardy Reef – two of about 3000 individual reefs spanning approximately 2600km – and I hear tales of George, the three metre-long groper living in the depths between.
George is well out of reach from up here but a photo confirms the genuine enormity of the groper, which swims alongside the throngs of snorkellers and divers who visit the spot each year.
And though I don’t head below the surface this time, I realise this place is just as breathtaking when viewed from above.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE: Jetstar, Virgin Australia and Qantas fly direct to Hamilton Island Airport daily from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Cairns. Ferries also cruise throughout the day from Shute Harbour.
STAYING THERE: Beach Club is about half the price of the exclusive Qualia resort but doesn’t skimp on luxury. The adults-only boutique resort has recently been beautifully refurbished and is positioned right on Catseye Beach, with rooms starting at $650 per night.
Reef View Hotel across the road is well-suited to families and groups, offering large rooms with sensational sea views. Rooms start at $370 per night.
PLAYING THERE: A one-hour scenic helicopter flight above the Great Barrier Reef including Heart Reef and Whitehaven Beach costs $599 per person (third seat $299), while a 10-minute flight over Hamilton Island costs $125 (third seat $69) and a six-minute “Hot Lap” is $60. Minimum two passengers for all flights.
There are a range of bushwalking trails of different lengths and difficulties depending on fitness levels. Allow 90 minutes for a return trip to Passage Peak and longer if adding additional routes. Note there are no toilets on trails and walkers need to bring their own water.
* The writer was a guest of Audi and Hamilton Island
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
@australia audi hamilton island Heart Reef island holiday queenslandLatest News
Booking.com launches AI Trip Planner in Australia and New Zealand
Booking.com has announced its AI Trip Planner (Beta) is now available for travellers in Australia and New Zealand, the first markets to launch in Asia Pacific. Until now, AI Trip Planner was only available for US and UK travellers after it was launched in the Booking.com app in June last year. Built using Booking.com’s existing […]
Voyages celebrates 40 years at Uluru with two new immersive experiences
No plans for celebrating your 40th this year? Here's a hot tip from us.
SkyDeck: The inflight entertainment you could never have imagined
Forget those external cameras you can live stream while in the air... With SkyDeck you can check it out for yourself.
Second Boeing whistleblower dies of ‘mystery infection’
Joshua Dean died from a fast-growing mystery infection on Tuesday.
Aussie winners of American Airlines ‘Sell Your Way to the USA’ announced
Show me the money! For the winners, Sell Your Way to the USA was worth getting involved in.
ANZCRO celebrates 30th with special edition of iconic New Zealand Book
Choice bro! ANZCRO celebrates its 30th with a special edition of its iconic New Zealand Book. Chur!
Room to move at Cairns Harbourside Hotel with ‘spacious’ new family package
Moody teens can eat two-minute noodles while younger brothers and sisters get to eat free with mum and dad. Win, win!
A&K unveils lavish around the world wildlife adventure in private jet
The kind of holiday that if you need to ask the cost, you probably can't afford it.
Flight Centre and Reforest hit one million trees target early
Nice one Flight Centre, we think you've earned an early Friday knockoff.
New cruise options spearhead stacked APT 2025 program
Just in case you thought you were running out of cruise itineraries, APT's here with a fresh batch.
Travel Weekly announces a new team to helm Australia’s No.1 travel trade title
Some shameless self-promotion from us, but we thought you needed to know who's bringing you the news.
IHG reveals plans for Brisbane’s first Kimpton in 2028
Just another reason to book that trip to Brisvegas. But don't jump the gun, it's not open until 2028.
Cruiseabout’s first store in five years opens in Perth
Perth gets a break from being behind the rest of the country with the addition of the first Cruiseabout store.
ATAS complaints process acknowledges non-economic loss
A High Court case win over 'disappointment and distress' on a cruise gone wrong prompts ATIA complaints change.
Cunard previews new Queen Anne
Yep, this one does exactly what it says on the tin.
Bunnik Tours unveils latest expansion to Iceland
Just as the Icelandic vikings did many years ago, Bunnik is expanding into new territories.
Australia’s first glamping retreat turns 25
25th anniversary gifts usually come in silver. Ours comes in the way of a news story.
Embrace the journey: Traversing the world with the Shokz OpenRun
If you’ve been on the wrong side of a final call in the airport, or missed the stop on rail journey, it might be time to invest in a pair of Shokz OpenRun headphones. Originally marketed as headphones for fitness fanatics, runners or cyclists with a keen to steer clear of a prang with a car, […]
Tourism Western Australia MD Carolyn Turnbull departs
Turnbull hints her new role will see her staying in the tourism and hospitality industry and who can blame her?
DriveAway launches Brit-Euro Blitz campaign
If agents can put the foot down quick enough and get involved, there are some great prizes to be won.
Fly and Stay Free with the Great Southern
Unlike those dodgy scam phone calls you're getting more and more of, there's no strings attached to this deal.
Sober travel and TikTok guide Australian Gen Z trips
Can you call it a sober holiday if you enjoy a few glasses of red on the flight? We think yes.
Travel DAZE Exec Agenda REVEALED: top execs to speak on airline competition
As the industry reels from Bonza's implosion, it is more important than ever to ask the big questions.
TTC: Deals are driving up demand for September trips
The latest market research from TTC Tour Brands shows interest in international leisure travel remains high for 2024, with 77 per cent of Australians over 18 still planning trips this year. Notably, 28 per cent of those travellers are eyeing September for their journeys. Europe continues to be the most popular destination, with 68 per […]
Skroo says Rex will need deep pockets to fill lost Bonza slots
The door is open for Rex, and anyone else who wants to launch a regional Aussie airline...
Sno’n’Ski Holidays unveils 2025 mega famil to Colorado!
Let the games begin - this is certainly not a famil that you will want to miss!
Walk Japan launches Kyoto: Mountains to the sea walking tour
There are two types of people, one who enjoys walking on holiday and another who enjoys sipping Mojitos by the pool.
Which destination had a 48% boost in bookings following 10 MILLION TikTok views?
Here's a clue: it's not Malabar Beach.
Asher Telford appointed General Manager of SeaLink Whitsundays
Telford has plenty of reasons to smile after SeaLink doubles down and makes him GM after buying his tourism operation.
Qantas ‘working urgently’ to fix app data leak
Qantas is looking into customer reports that passengers have this morning been able to access other passengers’ personal information on the airlines app. X user Lachlan posted that he was able log into different accounts every time he opened the app. My @Qantas app logs me in to a different person each time I open […]
Hilton Expands Presence in North Queensland with the signing of Hilton Garden Inn Townsville
Heading to a North Queensland Cowboys clash? Hilton Garden Inn Townsville is set to open, but not until 2026.
Rail Europe ANZ: making dream journeys come true
Rail Europe's running a lottery! You're not going to win millions, but you might just snag a free holiday.
UPDATE: Bonza hole deepens as administrators investigate financial affairs
Administrators dig deeper as struggling airline unlikely to be revived.
Revamped Wailoaloa Beach hotel opens as Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay Resort & Spa
Crowne Plaza Fiji Nadi Bay Resort & Spa is open and ready for bookings after the first phase of a multi-million-dollar transformation. Part of IHG Hotels & Resorts’ premium collection, the transformation has seen the completion of 106 guestrooms showcasing contemporary interiors reflective of the premium Crowne Plaza brand and is a first for the […]
Nielsen Data reveals brands spending big to attract Aussie tourists
Trip A Deal, Virgin and Ignite Travel walk into a bar, blow their cash on travel advertising instead of the pokies.
Kamalaya Koh Samui clinches clutch of wellness awards
Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary & Holistic Spa has so far clinched five prestigious awards in 2024, including being inducted into the ‘Hall of Fame’ at the World Spa & Wellness Awards in London. Founders of the Koh Samui sanctuary and spa John and Karina Stewart expressed their heartfelt gratitude for the awards. “We are profoundly honoured […]