Hawaii’s hidden islands

Hawaii is steeped in the spiritual tradition of aloha and there is no better way to connect with the Hawaiian reverence for joy and energy than in the authentic hidden islands of Molokai and Lanai. Infrequently visited when compared to their larger neighbours, it has rendered them brilliantly preserved slices of the Hawaii of old.

LANAI

NORTH: Garden of the Gods

A surreal Moon-like spectacle, this rock garden also offers views to nearby islands Molokai and Oahu. Known in the local language as Keahiakawelo, the landscape is linked to legend.

In a battle with the other hidden island of Molokai, two priests had to burn the land in a contest of longevity. The story goes that Lanai’s priest burnt the plants of this garden for such a time that it never grew back.

Like rock formations the world over, such as Stonehenge and Easter Island, the spiritual side of this bare garden is best viewed at sunrise or sunset, when the sky anoints the rocks with its own tones.

SOUTH: Sweetheart Rock

The romantic name belies a tale of two lovers linked to Hawaiian folklore. Legend has it that a youthful warrior from Lanai met a young lady whose beauty was so overwhelming, he would cry. Like many a chivalrous warrior before him, he took her to Lanai, and then hid her in a cave for protection. But when a storm came, she drowned in the sea cave. He buried her atop Sweetheart Rock and then threw himself to his death.

While you can’t hike up to the rock today, you can take a journey to nearby Puu Pehe rock for a great view. The walk incorporates tidal pools, beaches and a cliff hike. Dolphins are known to frolic in these waters so don’t forget the camera.

CENTRAL: Munro Trail

The quintessential Hawaii experience of an open-top Jeep tackling red dirt roads is exclusively yours on this deserted trail. And it is certainly rustic with just one lane running along the roughly 20 kilometre route.

It will take a leisurely two hours and the drive traverses pine, eucalypt and local ohia lehua forests. There are lookout points along the stretch of road and from the various points you can see neighbouring islands, included the isolated Kahoolawe. The high point of the trail is also the highest point of the island, Lanaihale, which rises to over 1000 metres.

HUB: Lanai City

It’s not really a city in the true sense of the word. Ensconced by pineapple plantations, it was primarily an agricultural boomtown one century ago. Today, it is host to a number of unpretentious shops and restaurants.

MOLOKAI

HUB: Kaunakakai

This may be the biggest town on the island, but it is more akin to what we would call a fishing village. Known as a paniolo, which is a Hawaiian cowboy town, its position on the harbour means a catch of the day tradition pervades.

The town also boasts Hawaii’s longest pier, perfect for casting off like the locals do for that evening’s dinner. There are shops and restaurants along Ala Malama Avenue but the biggest queue is commanded by the humble, yet famous, Kanemitsu’s Bakery. Their specialty is cheese and onion bread served with – wait for it – jam.

If you’re not too keen on this intriguing combination of savoury and sweet, opt for the gentler introductions of cinnamon, butter or cream cheese. The main hotel is Aqua Hotel Molokai and true to the island’s authenticity, it is modelled after a Polynesian village.

CENTRAL: Kapuaiwa Grove

This coconut grove is a Hawaii postcard personified. The trees date back to the 19th century and there are hundreds of them. Edged by the Mauna Lea Highway it is a perfect road trip stop-off, but Hawaii Tourism does advocate that you steer clear of standing in the grove due to the risk of falling coconuts.

Instead, there is a grass knoll with a view of the grove and the horizon. On your way to the coconut grove, don’t miss Church Row, where you will find seven churches that hark back to the era of religious missions.

EAST: Halawa Valley

Known as the cathedral valley, the wilderness of this region is both historical and spiritual. The remnants of an ancient Polynesian settlement date back to 650CE and the park is scattered with places of worship. The terrain is anything but flat here with a five metre drop for every one metre covered.

This is a place where waterfalls and cliffs meet. But it’s not too staggering as to prevent dives and swims. Mooula Falls may be 75 metres high but if you drop a ti leaf in and it floats, it’s safe to jump in.

For you see, this is another Hawaii legend that states a rather moody giant lizard lives in the pools. If the leaf sinks, it’s a good idea not to wake the beast and continue walking.

NORTH: Kalaupapa National Historical Park

The only way you can tackle the trail along the tallest sea cliffs in the world is by mule. The hardy animals are well equipped to take on the rocky peninsula. The trail is almost five kilometres long and has 26 heart-in-mouth bends.

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