“You couldn’t have picked a calmer day to fly in,” the taxi driver tells me on arrival in Wellington.

“It’s been lovely today but don’t worry – it won’t last long,” he laughs.

Right on cue the next day, a sunny autumn Saturday, is ushered in with a cool wind whistling hard up against my hotel window.

OK, so Wellington lives up to its reputation as the windy city but don’t let that deter you, as New Zealand’s compact capital offers plenty – even if Hobbits, Orcs and Middle Earth aren’t your thing.

As a first-time visitor to Wellington I’ve caught it on a red-letter day as the city hosts the New Zealand-West Indies World Cup cricket quarter-final. But more on that later.

Visitors throng the CBD as they make a beeline to enjoy Wellington’s prime asset – the harbour.

As an Australian I’ll stick my neck out and say it’s one of the great harbours in the southern hemisphere.

The teal-coloured waterfront becomes even more attractive after a cable car trip to the top which reveals stunning views over the city and mountains.

I walk through the Wellington Botanic Garden which provides sheltered calm from the blustery conditions and follow a meandering path which gazes across to volcanic ridges dotted with colourful weatherboard houses.

Comparisons to a micro San Francisco are unavoidable, but a stroll through nearby Kelburn virtually confirms it.

A short drive from Kelburn is Zealandia, the world’s first fully-fenced urban eco sanctuary. This is a slice of New Zealand in its pre-human state, detailing centuries of habitat loss and the long-term goal of returning Sanctuary Valley to such an environment. It’s a place where visitors can get up close to native birds and reptiles like the colourful but flightless takahe, the parrot kaka and the reptile tuatara, one of New Zealand’s most recognised animals next to the kiwi.

Zealandia brings out the inner nature-lover in everyone, and as a visitor I far prefer the concept of an eco-restoration project to a zoo.

It’s time to test out Wellington’s much vaunted cafe scene, so I head to a laneway on Leeds Street to find the Red Rabbit Coffee Co.

This roaster/retailer/cafe is more like a lab for bean fiends as it turns coffee making into a meticulous art form via a selection of filters and single origin beans.

I opt for a La Esperanza sourced from Nicaragua, in essence a long black, and its robustness hits me right between the eyes.

The Leeds St Bakery next door is worth browsing if only to taste one of their salted caramel cookies. Superb.

The afternoon’s culture fix is the excellent national museum, Te Papa.

Not only does it detail New Zealand’s history and culture but it does so in a clever and engaging way.

The museum and gallery are worth spending an hour or more minimum. I’m a bit pressed for time so I opt for many of the interactive displays like the earthquake house, which simulates an aftershock, before browsing around the carved Maori marae (meeting house) and a host of multimedia displays.

Best of all, entry to Te Papa is free, but there are charges for the interactive rides. A good option is an hour-long guided tour of the museum’s highlights for $NZ14 ($A13.67).

I catch up on the cricket by walking across to a packed fan site at Civic Square to find New Zealand slaying the West Indies’ bowling.

Leading the demolition is Martin Guptill with an unbeaten 223. Guptill’s breathtaking hitting helps New Zealand to 6-393.

An older Black Caps fan next to me shakes his head, clearly swept up by the heroics of Guptill.

“I haven’t seen our guys bat like that since the 1980s when Lance Cairns would hit out regularly. I can’t believe what I’m seeing,” he says.

It’s been a day out for New Zealand fans and this Wellington newbie but one of the highlights of my brief stay is dinner at WBC restaurant on Victoria Street.

I’m seated near a window overlooking the street and CBD in this attentive yet relaxed venue with a menu favouring flavoursome seafood.

For starters I order a plate of Bluff Oysters washed down with a glass of Amisfield dry riesling from Central Otago with the wine enhancing the minerality of the oysters.

As a comparison it’s suggested I try a Tio Point oyster from the Marlborough Sounds.

While the cold water Bluffs have size thanks to the South Islands Foveaux Strait, the smaller Tio Points, off the North Island are steely and intense.

My main course is crispy skinned tarakihi (morwong) which rests on a bed of coconut rice surrounded by crispy cassava chips and Brazilian sweet pepper sauce.

Tarakihi’s mild flavour works a treat with the strong sauce and a delicious Hawkes Bay chardonnay. The food, wine list, service and general ambience really lift this elegant eatery into the classy dining category.

I step out into the Wellington evening and there are noisy celebrations underway in the bars on Cuba Street on the way to my hotel. New Zealand has comfortably won the cricket and Wellington is ready for a long night of partying.

IF YOU GO:

GETTING THERE: Air New Zealand flies daily to Wellington from Australia’s major cities. For prices and flights see: airnewzealand.com.au

STAYING THERE: CQ Hotel is located at 223 Cuba Street, Te Aro. Room prices start from $169 per night. Details: www.hotelwellington.co.nz

PLAYING THERE: Te Papa museum is at 55 Cable Street on Wellingtons waterfront. General admission is free. Details: tepapa.govt.nz

Wellington cable car is at Cable Car Lane, 280 Lambton Quay. The service runs every 10 minutes. Details: wellingtoncablecar.co.nz

Red Rabbit Coffee Co is located at 6G, 14 Leeds Street. Details: redrabbitcoffee.co.nz

Zealandia is at end of Waiapu Road, Kaori. Details: visitzealandia.com

Wellington Botanic Garden admission is free. Details: wellington.govt.nz

WBC restaurant is upstairs at 107 Victoria Street. Details: wbcrestaurant.co.nz

* The writer travelled as a guest of Positively Wellington Tourism.