Unexpected China

1. A DESERT. WITH CAMELS

The largest desert in Asia is more often associated with Mongolia, but the Gobi Desert stretches across the border into the north of China. Be prepared to have your expectations stretched further, for this desert is a cold one, with the average temperature a bone-achingly cold -1 degree. Located nearly a kilometre above sea level, the dunes are frequently turned white by snow and frost. The major town is Dunhuang, and it is a great starting point to rent a camel – the ship of the desert. Dunhuang was a major stop historically on the Silk Road and the city dates back to 2000BC. On your rent-a-camel, head for Crescent Lake, an oasis in the desert with flowers and trees surrounding the water’s perimeter. The oasis is surrounded by 250 metre high sand dunes.

2. SKIING AT A WORLD CLASS RESORT

A little over a decade ago China had nine ski resorts. That number now stands at 200, and the newest to open is at Changbaishan, which is an area close to the North Korean and Russian borders. This is one of the largest ski resorts in Asia, home to 43 trails with a 438-metre descent. The area has China’s longest ski run, stretching 30km, and also has a cable car system that extends seven kilometres. Starwood hotels have invested here too, building a Westin and a Sheraton resort. The Westin has ski-in, ski-out access as well as hot spring pools.

3. VINEYARDS. WITH AWARD-WINNING WINE

In 2012, something happened that shocked the somewhat insular global viticulture industry. A Chinese wine beat a Bordeaux wine in a tasting competition. That win provided the impetus for the fast developing Chinese red wine industry. Not only does Chinese red wine sound oxymoronic, the vineyards themselves are in the desert, throwing another spanner into the works of expectation. But once you learn that the small, central province of Ningxia is supported by a government that aims high and achieves the seemingly impossible, it makes a little more sense. In fact, Ningxia has been heavily irrigated in recent years as part of the government’s mission to create China’s answer to Tuscany. Some of the top wine labels in the world have already invested in the region, so the sky’s the limit it seems.

4. DONUTS. AS BUILDINGS

No, not a donut shop – ancient housing complexes accommodating up to 800 people called tulou that are shaped like donuts and were once mistaken for nuclear missile sites by US intelligence. To give US intelligence its due, they do look suspicious, albeit more like grounded UFOs crossed with Elizabethan theatre houses (think London’s Globe) than missile launchers. Constructed between the 15th and 20th century, they were built to shelter and protect a clan from invaders. There are 46 tulou in the Fujian province counties of Yongding and Xiamen and they traditionally existed as a small walled city. Inside, they are elaborately decorated in accordance with the community’s spiritual and feng shui beliefs.

5. THE ICING ON TOP

We’ve saved the best until last. Harbin is known as the ice city of China thanks to the annual Harbin Ice and Snow Festival, which is guaranteed to elicit a “wow” from even the most cynical of tourists. Massive castles, faces and animals are carved out of ice here. They are then turned into LED extravaganzas with fluorescent lights that look ethereal come the dark winter night. To give you an idea of scale, one part of the festival is Ice and Snow World, which covers an area the size of 80 football pitches. One castle from previous years took 2000 people 15 days to build. You can fly from Beijing to Harbin in under two hours, and the festival takes place in January. This is one to put in the diary.

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