Mt Buller skiing 3 hours from Melbourne
Few people can boast a ski lift named in their honour, but Hans Grimus is part of the fabric of the Victorian alpine resort that personifies the Tyrolean charm of Mt Buller.
He is a card-carrying Mt Buller legend and the owner of the multi-award winning Hotel Pension Grimus that has been an integral part of the village since 1973.
The ski-in, ski-out hotel makes guests feel like they are cocooned in a traditional Austrian pension, with Herr Grimus the paternal figure holding court in Kaptans Restaurant at night.
When we visited he was charming guests with a mysterious German toast before joining them in downing shots of schnapps, which he sometimes follows with a serenade on his squeezebox.
The restaurant walls are crammed with photos documenting the history of Mt Buller and there is also an intricately carved wooden mantelpiece depicting pioneering scenes of the mountain, a cuckoo clock, cow bells and a mounted moose head that peers down on diners (vegetarians be warned).
As if that does not make him legend enough, Hans’ son Anton is an Olympic skier who is a very welcome sight to early morning skiers, serving delicious, hot, steaming coffee (The Grimus Grind), toasties and pastries through the hotel’s window where people eagerly queue in the snow.
It is not hard to see why Mt Buller has become the most loved ski resort in the Victorian Alps, with more than 300,000 visitors a year enjoying 22 lifts and 80 kilometres of runs.
There is 300 hectares of stunning terrain for skiers of all abilities as well as 30 bars and restaurants for apres ski festivities.
With 7000 beds on the mountain, the alpine village has an incredibly charming and family-friendly, old-world Tyrolean atmosphere – all within a three-hour drive of Melbourne.
That is something you don’t really find at other Australian ski resorts and it is the reason why it’s a favourite with families and champion skiers alike.
It is really special to stay on the mountain and immerse yourself in the alpine life, which also means you eliminate the drudgery of commuting to and from the slopes every day – and much of the accommodation at Mt Buller also offers the convenience of ski-in, ski-out.
As a first time visitor to Mt Buller, I was delighted to find it reminiscent of a European ski resort. The village square is the hub where skiers head for apres ski activities, the fairy lights in the gum trees charmingly creating a picturesque winter wonderland.
During the day the village is serviced by a constant stream of courtesy minibuses driven by cheerful drivers who ferry weary skiers to and from the lodges that are dotted up the winding summit road.
Our driver was a friendly font of information offering tips on where to ski, what is happening with the weather, where to eat and what to do after dark – the sort of service that is hard to find at most places.
It was snowing on our first morning, which is (a) very pretty and (b) good in theory because snow is good for skiing, right? But sometimes it can prove to be just too much of a good thing.
Skiers are a hardy bunch – it’s cold, it’s wet, it’s windy, it’s exhausting, there’s bulky clothes, heavy boots and risk of injury – what’s not to love?
But love it we do. We happily launch ourselves into the blizzard (OK, technically probably not a blizzard, but it’s very, very snowy).
We approach with much enthusiasm but some trepidation as average skiers who have not skied in a while.
Even though visibility is not quite what you’d like, we put our faith in our ski instructor to guide us safely to the sweet spots.
And if your ski instructor is a 50-year-old Austrian called Hans then you can rest assured he has been skiing for approximately 49 years and you are in very good hands.
Hans not only has the right accent to put your fears at bay, there’s no doubt when it comes to traversing the mountain, he’s pretty much seen it and done it all before.
The conditions meant there were limited lifts open but Hans guides us down the best paths, offering helpful tips and making us ski better.
Despite the less-than-ideal conditions, we loved the morning ski, and there is nothing like exercising in the cold to make you ravenous for lunch.
We were whisked on a skidoo (so much fun) to Tirol Cafe on the top of the Tirol T-bar for possibly the most delicious trilogy of fresh pasta I’ve ever consumed.
The cafe is decorated with intriguing memorabilia from the mountain’s history, including old wooden skis, and also has an extensive deck overlooking the mountain that offers fantastic views on a sunny day (not today!).
The pasta is served with attitude as well as altitude, a sure sign it is made with love and will be good. The sign next to the cash register says the food is made fresh to order and warns “if you can’t wait don’t order” as well as inviting those who prefer fast food to bugger off elsewhere with helpful directions to where.
Our second day offered postcard-perfect conditions. We explored the south side of the mountain and discovered pristine powder snow.
From the ski school, the high-speed six-seater ABOM express delivers us to a point where the entire mountain opens up.
The snow is glistening, the sun is shining and, with the mountain trail map in hand, we are determined to try as many runs as we dare and are delighted to find it surprisingly easy to navigate.
There are so many options for intermediate and advanced skiers that it is easy for hot shots and wannabes to ski close together and rendezvous on the slopes for lunch.
We stopped at Koflers, where we sat looking at the spectacular view, enjoying a scrummy hot lunch finished with a delicious homemade apple pie and hot chocolate.
Refreshed, we returned to the slopes, skiing run after run, repeating those we enjoyed the most with virtually no queues.
The only disappointment was the highest chairlift, Grimus (1780 metres), was closed and there was also one mightily humiliating incident falling off the T-bar and tumbling inelegantly down the slope with legs akimbo.
The popularity of spring skiing has stretched the season in recent years with the help of the 223 snow guns operating at Mt Buller.
Additionally, meteorologists are predicting good spring snowfalls, making the conditions ideal for those who love to ski towards the end of the season.
The beautiful spring weather is a big factor attracting late season skiers as well as the advantages of shorter lift queues and fewer skiers. The resort offers many tempting deals to attract spring skiers, including free parking, discounted lift passes, cheaper accommodation and children stay free deals.
SPRING SKIING IF YOU GO
2016 Season Memberships will be on sale from September and include access to all the lifts for September 2015, as well as every day of the 2016 season, for $799 for adults and $449 for children (up to year 12).
MT BULLER SPRING EVENTS
The 2nd Annual Corona Extra Pond Skim National Championships on September 19 will see some of the craziest costumes and silly stunts as participants slide down a temporary dam on the Bourke Street ski run.
On September 5, Mt Buller is going back to the 1980s. Bust out your fluoro ski suit and leg warmers for a fun-filled day of ’80s cheese across the mountain.
FOR SPRING ACCOMMODATION SPECIALS CHECK
email at info@skibuller.com.au
Bookings on 1800 810 200
* The writer travelled as a guest of Mt Buller
Supplied image of ambassador Cam Staveley at the Bull Run Bowl at Mount Buller, Victoria
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