Trade winds rustle through palm fronds high above the grassy foreshore.

Small, messy waves crash onto the firm sand beach.

Faintly, the squeals of children splashing about in the resort pool can be heard.

It's the afternoon soundtrack of a weekend stay in Palm Cove, Queensland.

I listen to the holiday harmony from a private cabana above the beach, at the five-star resort Alamanda Palm Cove.

Here, my muscles and city stresses are pummelled away, evaporating into the unseasonably cool air.

There are three double cabana rooms at Alamanda Day Spa, all with aqua-tiled plunge pools and views of the Coral Sea through towering coconut palms.

It's the perfect spot to begin a romantic escape.

The weather may not be great but it's easy to relax to the sounds of the wind, ocean and distant happy children.

My deep-tissue massage is followed by more indulgence at one of Palm Cove's premier dining establishments – Nu Nu Restaurant.

Nu Nu Restaurant is the epitome of Palm Cove chic. Its white and natural timber interior is large and light, and decorated with retro hanging baskets filled with ferns.

The menu is impressive and each dish we try, delicious.

We start with warm lemon bread with olive oil ($9), and follow it with a more-ish entree of carrot and goat's cheese tortellini with pomegranate syrup, saffron butter and spiced almonds ($17).

Our main is the star of the meal – line-caught reef red emperor served with sage and ricotta dumplings ($27).

Dessert is a slice of lemon semolina cake with honeycomb crumbs, yoghurt marshmallow and vanilla ice-cream ($15).

Despite being in one of the most remote corners of Australia, Nu Nu Restaurant has city sophistication – across its menu, styling and service – yet it encapsulates Queensland's laid-back charm.

The waitstaff is a professional mix of Europeans, who are friendly and attentive.

We soon discover it's a trait of many living and working in Palm Cove, and it endears us further to this tropical seaside hamlet.

The following morning we find ourselves at Nu Nu's again, enjoying a dessert-like breakfast of roast pineapple and brioche, with custard and vanilla cream ($16)

After a lazy start, mid-morning is spent strolling the curve of sand stretching south.

It seems the activity of choice, as we pass young families, couples and locals walking dogs. The sea continues to be whipped by the south-easterly gale, ruling out the hire of Stand-Up Paddleboards. We consider taking advantage of the weather conditions by going kiteboarding, but we quickly dismiss the idea in favour of more relaxing.

Instead, we swim in a sea that's refreshing thanks to the cold front stretching along Australia's east coast.

(In the off season you don't need to wear a stinger suit – those wrist to ankle neoprene ensembles. In winter, the water is much cooler than summer's bath-like temperatures, and because of this, stingers aren't common, and neither are crocs.)

After climbing crooked palms reaching for the horizon, and skimming stones over the crests of waves, we return to good habits by enjoying lunch at Chill Cafe.

Salt and pepper squid and fish tacos are washed down well with freshly squeezed juices, enjoyed at the cafe's timber bar.

Again, the staff is multi-national, friendly and uber relaxed, and it's the same throughout the town.

Palm Cove has country politeness with city style. It's ideal for a weekend jaunt, as there is just one main thoroughfare, which is lined by impossibly perfect resort properties.

Expect white cane chairs in crisp white restaurants, with gas lamps illuminating the esplanade at night among a hubbub of chatty diners.

It's a bit cookie-cutter and appears to have been purpose-built for holidaymakers – a little bit reminiscent of The Truman Show – and yet this is a setting you don't want to flee.

It's similar to Airlie Beach, further south, but a more upmarket version. Instead of Airlie's backpackers you've got young families and grey nomads; and you'll find organic food cafes and seafood restaurants instead of loud bars.

My only disappointment is the lack of stylish boutiques. Palm Cove could do with a visit from the Oatleys to inject some Hamilton Island style into the drab resort-wear stores.

But the lack of shopping is a good thing, as tourist dollars can instead be spent on the delicious dining options.

That night for dinner, we splurge at another esplanade gem – Beach Almond.

Embracing our romantic escape, we share a seafood platter with an enormous chilli mud crab, barramundi, mussels, king prawns and salad.

Feeling right at home, we make a mess on our paper bibs, and the waiters smile and laugh with us before we wander back along the lamp-lit esplanade to Alamanda.

Restaurants buzz with relaxed tourists who've embraced the "Fiji time" vibe of this tiny Aussie destination.

Once in bed, we fall asleep to the chirps of geckos and the rustle of a sea breeze through the towering beachside palms.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE:

Cairns is the closest airport to Palm Cove. Tigerair flies to Cairns from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. For airfares, go to tigerair.com/au/en/.

Palm Cove is about 25 minutes' drive north of Cairns Airport, and one-way coach transfers will set you back about $20 per adult and $10 per child.

STAYING THERE:

Rooms at Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore start from $195 for a one-bedroom studio. The day spa has eight treatment rooms and offers more than 30 treatments. The hotel is in walking distance to Palm Cove restaurants and shops. For more, check out lancemore.com.au/alamanda.

PLAYING THERE:

There are few budget dining options in Palm Cove, so if you're watching your wallet, call into nearby Cairns to stock up on groceries.

There are two very small corner stores in Palm Cove selling basic groceries, as well as a surf club restaurant and tavern.

*The writer travelled as a guest of Tigerair and Alamanda Palm Cove