Kenya on canvas
Kenya combines Maasai culture with glorious wildlife spotting.
Here are three reviews of the best places to stay that are sure to delight your nature-loving clients.
1. CAMPI YA KANZI
Welcome: 9/10
Nestled within what Hemingway called the Green Hills of Africa, Campi Ya Kanzi is a luxury camp without parallel. It’s five-star, of course, but the safari adventure and the authentic immersion in Maasai culture makes it feel like I am visiting friends and family from the moment I step off the one hour flight from Nairobi.
On arrival we are greeted with hugs and handshakes on the quaint grass runway by members of the local Maasai tribes and are then ushered into our vehicles for our first adventure. After a short drive spotting giraffe, warthog and zebra on the way, we arrive at Tembo House, the clubhouse at the heart of the camp, to indulge in a much-needed massage while sipping fresh fruit juice.
Accommodation: 9/10
After being led to my private tented cottage by a dedicated Maasai attendant there is a personalised welcome card sitting on the bed in the spacious yet cosy room and equally inviting en suite.
The cottage faces out into the valleys at the foot of the Chyulu Hills and offers the chance to glimpse Mount Kilimanjaro from the balcony to the right and a plethora of wildlife at the waterhole on the left. The Hemingway Suite is something else again.
Ambiance: 10/10
The flame lanterns lit at night really emphasise the feeling of being far from civilisation as we know it. The dining room, common lounge and terraces are all situated in such a way that there is always a view of the stunning hills that surround.
Furniture and decor throughout Tembo house and the cottages incorporate local sustainable substances such as wood, grasses and local carvings. Private outings are easily arranged, making it perfect for couples and small groups who wish to do their own thing.
Facilities: 9/10
Campi Ya Kanzi is completely self-sufficient and has partnered with the local Maasai community to ensure no harm comes to the neighbouring lands. All water comes from rain cropping, while electricity and hot water are sourced from solar panels and a custom built generator.
All products within the cottage such as shampoo and soaps are environmentally friendly and safe for the delicate surrounding environment.
My room is kept spotless at all times via a twice daily visit from the staff including a nightly turndown service. The cottages may be fancy tents in reality but the attention to detail ensures a first class experience. The fact I am left undisturbed by all creatures great and small throughout the night only heightens the experience.
Service: 9/10
With room for only 16 guests at any one time the service for visitors is impeccable. The staff are extremely friendly and approachable as well as professional. The owners of the camp, Luca and Antonella, join us for every meal and share personal stories of their lives back in Italy and adventures they’ve had while running their 18 year old camp.
Overall: 92%
Campi Ya Kanzi has it all. A relaxed five-star experience without all the pompous fanfare that often comes with top line properties.
2. OL’DONYO
Welcome: 9/10
Taking off from Campi Ya Kanzi on Luca’s five-seater Cessna was an experience in itself. Pilot Bob was kind enough to let me sit in the co-pilot seat and from the moment we started moving my heart was racing with excitement.
We took the long route sweeping past local artworks by Australian land artist Andrew Rogers and flew low to spot wildebeest. Upon arrival at Ol’Donyo we are greeted with a hot face towel to refresh and a cool drink to follow. Managers Alyssa and Ray are the first to welcome us to their lodge.
Accommodation: 9/10
Upon entering my room my jaw dropped at the sheer size. There’s a main room housing the beds and a lovely sitting area and a walkway to the bathroom decked out with a massive bathtub.
A glass doorway along the walkway leads to my very own private outdoor shower overlooking the nearby waterhole. From the bathroom I am led out to a private pool, which, much like every other room, looks out over the rich landscape.
I wander up a set of stairs and discover yet another bed. There is an option to camp out under the stars if weather permits.
Upon closer inspection I discover there is no wall, but only canvas separating my bed from the outside. Scary perhaps, but there are rooms with glass walls for the less adventurous. For me the idea of virtually camping out with the elephants is just about a dream come true.
Ambiance: 8/10
The construction of the lodge is mainly of stone and wood complementing the surrounds and adding a rustic earthy feel to an otherwise polished upmarket abode. All common areas are open to the elements, allowing visitors to take in the sights of the mountains and wildlife. Another great option is to relax to the sounds of the wild around the log fire by night.
Facilities: 9/10
The lodge offers many opportunities to take part in activities available either in a group or privately. All necessary equipment for adventures is provided and there is always a guide on hand to help with anything needed. There is a bar in the common area and all meals are planned by Ray who is a classically trained chef.
A rarity out in this part of Kenya, the lodge also provides a Wi-Fi hut for those who just can’t avoid the hustle and bustle of life back home. I recommend avoiding that area, as it is nice to disconnect from the world and completely immerse oneself into the experience. This lodge gives the sense of privacy and exclusivity.
Service: 9/10
Staff are friendly and efficient albeit a little more formal than those at Campi Ya Kanzi. This doesn’t detract from the experience at all though. Washing is done daily and we are never left wanting for a drink. The rooms were made up every morning and turned down nightly with great attention to detail.
Overall: 88%
The property is highly sophisticated, while the friendly management and staff make it a pleasure to stay and equally hard to leave.
3. TAWI LODGE
Welcome: 8/10
As is the tradition here in Kenya we are greeted at the lodge entrance with a tray of cool refreshing towels to cleanse our dust covered faces and a fresh fruit juice to rehydrate. The friendly smiles of the staff make us feel immediately welcome and our bags are whisked away promptly as we are shown around the main building of the lodge.
Accommodation: 9/10
Lodgings at this retreat are spread out across 12 separate cottages all located in bushland facing Mount Kilimanjaro. Each cottage is eco-friendly with all lighting and water systems being solar powered.
There are many opportunities to enjoy the view of Africa’s highest mountain, from the private wooden decks to the windows in the shower and even directly in front of the toilet – a loo with a view.
My cottage is pleasantly decorated with a combination of modern and traditional wares, giving a feeling of class yet comfort, and the extra large freestanding bath with a view is very inviting.
Ambience: 8/10
This is quite an expansive property but it still retains a pleasant laid-back atmosphere. Despite its size guests are unlikely to feel overwhelmed when visiting.
The entrance and walkways are decorated with local artworks – ranging from the modern to the historically significant – and the many brightly coloured lizards running around make the short walk to and from my cottage delightful.
Facilities: 9/10
There’s plenty to keep you occupied at a place like this, such as the swimming pool, day spa, private wine cellar and nearby waterhole where a variety of wildlife are in residence.
Guests can request to partake in any number of more involving activities too. There’s the essential game safari, tours of the local areas and, perhaps best of all, a trip to the must-see Amboseli National Park.
We went twice during our short stay, once in the afternoon and then early morning. Each trip provided opportunities to spot different wildlife such as cheetah cubs, hippos, hyena, ostriches and as ever the usual suspects like the plentiful zebra.
The food is prepared by a dedicated chef using as much locally sourced produce as possible. Everything I tasted was divine and very memorable.
Service: 9/10
Staff were always on hand to help or escort me around the camp and were as unobtrusive as they were helpful. Everything went smoothly during my stay, even when I required assistance to remove a small bat that must have snuck into my lodgings while I was out admiring the magnificent view of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Overall: 86%
This lodge is ideal for those seeking a relaxing holiday with a little activity thrown in. Tawi Lodge also offers an on-site souvenir store where we could pick up wares ranging from jewellery to belts and ties.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
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