Delights of the Douro

For a river valley that is UNESCO World Heritage listed, you sure don't hear much about the Douro. It's the most significant waterway in the Iberian Peninsula, and it whimsically meanders through the eye-catching countryside of Spain and Portugal.

Porto, possibly the prettiest city in Europe, is the perfect spot to begin a voyage. It is known as the City of Bridges and thus is tailor made for river cruising. Despite this, Porto remains sadly overlooked, lost in the shadows of Italy and Spain's other great cities. But if you are after a place with a beach and a river, narrow cobblestone lanes, distinctive architecture and Mediterranean panache, Porto is hard to go past.

Mosaic tiles feature heavily throughout the city – whether it's the facade of a cathedral or on what would be otherwise drab railway station walls. In fact, at Sao Bento station you will want your train to be delayed. The zulejos (Portuguese tiles) spin out tales from history in blue and white, like old English crockery.

Situated on a hill that rises above the Douro River, steps that lead up and down laneways entice you to sit and absorb the romance of this medieval city. The Ribeira district is rich with crumbling 20th century townhouses and narrow avenues. Porto is also making its mark as a cultural hub in the crowded European art space. The contemporary art museum and the house of music are held in high regard for both their exterior architecture and interior style. Gustave Eiffel, of Parisian tower fame, designed an iron bridge in the city that bears the hallmarks of the icon, albeit a horizontal version.

Porto used to be the centre of the port wine trade, and the tipple comes from the vineyards you will gently cruise past. In fact, the Alto Douro is the oldest formally designated wine growing region in the world. Many of the vines here are used to make port – rich sweet fortified wine often pulled out with the cheese plate at Christmas time. Wine estates, called quintas are open to stop-in visits and are often part of a river cruise itinerary.

Most cruises stop in at Regua, which is a region devoted to growing grapes for port. With the Serra do Marao mountains on either side of the river, Regua is a peaceful place and makes a fine, pardon the pun, port of call. Historically, the barrels here were shipped using traditional boats called rabelos. Even though there are more efficient modes of transportation today, you will most likely see a few as you journey along this Iberian river.

Barca d'Alva is another riverine stopping point, a tiny hamlet renowned for its tall rail bridge. A walk up the hills to a historic hamlet called Castelo Rodrigo is well worth the exertion. It is a 15th century castle, partly in ruins, but some of its medieval grandeur survives. Beyond the history, the panoramic views are the reason to go. And you can see a lot from here – the olive groves and vineyards of both Portugal and Spain stretch as far as the eye can see.

Barca D'Alva is the last Portuguese village along the Douro. The next stop will be in Spain and most river cruises mark the occasion with an evening display of flamenco.

Spain's secret gem is Salamanca, a university town steeped in history. The students infuse the city with energy, with young people occupying the squares until late in the evening, drinking and talking. It is one of the friendliest cities in Spain and was made for walking around. The university is also the oldest in Spain, dating back to the 13th century. Pretty much everything is sandstone, from the monuments to the cloisters. The Plaza Major should be your first stop; the striking square is designed in an intimidating baroque style, heavy with arches and historical figureheads. La Casa de las Conchas, which translates to House of Shells, is just that. Around 400 shells were attached to the exterior walls in the 15th century. It's just as striking inside with an open-roof courtyard typical of Spanish architecture.

The Douro might be a river you haven't heard of before, but once experienced, it is guaranteed to be one you never forget.

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