Landing at Christchurch Airport’s glossy new terminal on a sunny summer’s day, we’re eager to start exploring. Before heading to our hotel we begin our trip with a 20 minute Christchurch City Scenic Experience helicopter tour with Garden City Helicopters.

From the air the views are spectacular as our pilot points out landmarks across the city, such as Hagley Park, but it’s eye-opening to see how much of the city was lost and the amount of rebuilding that’s taking place. We also fly over the epicentre of the February 2011 quake, near the raffish port town of Lyttelton Harbour and over the impressive Port Hills, including the area’s highest peak, Mount Herbert. It’s incredible to see condemned houses clinging on to the edge of cliffs and piles of rubble where the ground gave way and collapsed under buildings.

We drop off our bags at the Heritage Christchurch Cathedral Square hotel, a converted ex-government building located in the heart of the CBD, and one of Christchurch’s most stunning remaining heritage buildings. The hotel is just a short walk from many of the city’s emerging areas, such as the New Regent Street shopping precinct and the Re: START Mall. The hotel was reopened in 2013 after surviving the earthquakes with relatively little structural damage, attributed to the extensive strengthening work carried out to the building in the 1990s. It has been lovingly restored and boasts extremely roomy, beautifully appointed and comfortable one-, two- and three-bedroom suites (the open-plan one-bedroom suite is bigger than my one-bedroom Sydney apartment!), plus a gym, lap pool, sauna and steam room. Originally dating back to 1913 this building was built to last and this quality shines through in every fixture and fitting. Noise is never a problem, in fact we don’t hear another guest during our stay. The bed on the loft-style bedroom is super comfortable and even though later that evening we experience a small tremor, we sleep soundly, happy in the knowledge we’re in one of the safest buildings in the city.

For dinner we head to one of Christchurch’s newest restaurants, Harlequin Public House, set in a beautifully restored Victorian villa. Led by Jonny Schwass, the kitchen produces high quality seasonal dishes using local ingredients. I can’t go past the Tio Point oysters from Marlborough Sounds, which are fat, juicy and delicious and follow them up with poached salmon, asparagus and oyster cream all washed down with a bottle of excellent local drop Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon.

Harlequin Public House is on the fringe of Victoria Street, which is emerging as a hub for new restaurants and bars with King of Snake, Smash Palace, Mexicano’s and Tequila Mockingbird all well worth a visit.

The next morning, after a restful sleep (even after the quake!), we head to C1 Espresso for a delicious breakfast. It’s a spacious, converted ex-Post Office building with high ceilings and a fun, shabby chic decor. Everything has been recycled, from large, classic wooden tables sourced from demolished buildings to futuristic domed lights – from the former Great Hall of the Arts Centre – that hang from its high ceilings.

An excellent way to explore the city at ground level is with a trip on the Hassle Free Discover Christchurch Tour. We board a 1960s open top red London bus and are taken through the heart of the CBD and learn about the fascinating history of Christchurch from the pioneering days through to modern times, as well as how the city is recovering after the catastrophic earth quakes.

The iconic Christchurch tram is also up and running and it’s another must-do when in the city. It gives a unique a taste of the past, including video screens of how the streets looked pre earthquake.

Never ones to shy away from a little retail therapy we’re excited to learn there are plenty of shopping options in the city, including the now iconic Re:START Mall on Cashel Street. Designed and built from brightly coloured shipping containers there are cool, funky boutique shops and ‘laneways’ to explore and a real buzz about the place. The Re-START Mall is a symbol of the city’s resilience and the area has helped tokick-start Christchurch’s retail activity. There are also plenty of food options in the area including food trucks, a wood fired pizza hut and the two-storey Hummingbird Coffee cafe where the corn fritters are a must-try.

Further along Cashel Street is the unmissable Quake City visitor centre. Coordinated by Canterbury Museum, Quake City is a unique multi-sensory exhibition aimed at informing, engaging and educating New Zealanders and international tourists on the Canterbury earthquakes. It focuses on the science of the earthquakes, the human side of the disaster and the recovery, with a strong emphasis on looking forward to the future. We spend around an hour inside and find it humbling and confronting to watch video testimonials of quake survivors. A visit here should be top of every tourist’s to-do list.

Walking back through the city to the hotel Christchurch’s energy, spirit and creativity is evident everywhere. Scaffolding is decorated with hanging potted plantsand gap filler projects are abundant. One of the most eery is the ‘185 Empty Chairs’ art installation by Peter Majendie, on the corner of Madras Street, just across the street from the former site of the CTV building where many of the 185 people lost their lives. Other projects have popped up throughout the city including a palette pavilion and mini golf course.

One of the biggest talking points of the city’s rebuild and a popular site for visitors is the Transitional ‘Cardboard’ Cathedral. Designed by architect Shigeru Ban, the building is several blocks from the permanent location of Christchurch Cathedral which was badly damaged by the quake and whose future is still under debate. Built from cardboard, locally sourced wood and steel with a polished concrete floor and polycarbonate roof, the impressive structure should last up to 100 years and is as much as tourist attraction as it is a place of worship.

Our home for our second night is the brand new 4.5 star Rydges Latimer Christchurch. It’s the first complete rebuild of any hotel with 100 per cent compliance to the new building regulations, so after making use of the gym and sauna we settle in our well-appointed rooms and go to bed feeling safe. Breakfast at Rydges Latimer is a real treat at the hotel’s restaurant, bar and grill, Bloody Mary’s. Guests are invited to ‘build your own’ Bloody Mary from a selection of ingredients, including Absolut Vodka, tomato juice, tabasco and all the trimmings – perfect for those who’ve over indulged the night before! There is also traditional breakfast buffet feast of everything from bacon and eggs to muesli and fresh juices and smoothies, all of which are delicious.

We continue the morning at a leisurely pace with a punt along the River Avon. A nod to Christchurch’s early British settlers, this ultra-relaxing experience is a must and we spend a sublime and relaxing half hour on the river with our punter, Jesse, sweeping through the weeping willow trees and taking in the views across the beautiful Botanic Gardens – it makes a perfect romantic trip for two.

Another fabulous excursion is a trip on the Christchurch Gondola. Suspended above the suburbs the gondola whisks us nearly a kilometre to the Crater Rim of the Port Hillswhere we are treated to extraordinary views.

If health-conscious living and eating is your thing, The Lotus-Heart vegetarian restaurant is a fantastic destination for a tasty lunch. The vegan in our group squeals with delight at the endless food options on the menu and its vast list of mouth-watering smoothies, cold-pressed juices, curries and salads make it a popular spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner with locals and tourists alike. 

More shopping and dining options can be found at The Tannery where we spend the last of our New Zealand dollars on local crafts, designs and fashion. It’s set in the old Woolston Tannery, which was built in 1870 has been revamped into a stunning boutique retail emporium based on The Strand in Sydney, so it’s packed with charm.

From Garden City to pop-up city, there is plenty going on in Christchurch to whet every traveller’s appetite.