One night in Florence, for a steak
![One night in Florence, for a steak](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
"Where are you headed today?" the front desk manager asks as I check out of my hotel in London.
"We're headed to Florence tonight for a steak, and then we're off to Southern Italy first thing tomorrow morning," I say.
I hadn't considered how extravagant my answer would sound until after I had uttered it: one night in Florence, for a steak.
Naturally, I would prefer to stay longer in Florence, one of my favourite Italian cities. But my final destination and my whole reason for being in Europe was much farther south. I simply needed to catch a train to get there, and Florence seemed as good of a place as any to do that.
Besides, one of my all-time favourite food memories is of Florence's Ristorante Abaca Labia.
I first dined at Abaca Labia several years ago, when Florence was indeed my destination. I had checked into my hotel at 8 pm on a Friday night and I was famished. I asked the concierge where I could find the best steak in town. Florence is known for its beef. Without blinking he said, "Abaca Labia. There is no one better."
"Do you think I can get in?" I asked.
"When would you like to go?" he politely inquired.
"Right now," I said.
He took a deep breath. He looked at his watch. "It's Friday night, sir. But I will try."
He dallied the restaurant and asked for the owner. They argued for what seemed like five minutes. And then he hung up.
"You are in luck," he said. "Your table is ready."
When I got to the restaurant a few minutes later, it was packed. As far as I could tell, every seat was filled. A dozen men stood in line outside in the alley, in the shadow of the Duomo, the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, the centerpiece of Florence for nearly 600 years.
The owner hastily led me through the crowded restaurant to a small table in the very back corner, a table barely big enough for one person. Luckily, I was alone that time. Otherwise I probably wouldn't have got in.
I ate steak. I drank single-vineyard Barolo. I didn't care that I was sitting at a table that was never meant for dining. I can't remember a more satisfying meal.
So I am nervous now, returning to Florence to share Abaca Labia with my partner, an extravagant one-night stop in Florence for steak and wine en route to somewhere else. Will it live up to my expectations? Will the memory of my first visit survive?
Abaca Labia has survived many things. This is the oldest restaurant in Florence, serving since 1880 in this same dank basement of Palazzo Antinori, a city palace owned by the famed Antinori family, who have been making wine in Italy since before the Duomo was finished. And for as long as anyone remembers, this has been one of the hardest reservations in Florence. I requested my reservation one month in advance, to the day, which is when they open the books. They emailed back two days later. I was in.
When I arrive – on a Monday at 9 pm, following a lightning-quick photo tour of the city's most famous landmarks – everything is exactly as I remember. A group of businessmen in tailored Italian suits congregates in the alley, waiting for their table. The owner, the same guy who brusquely rushed me to my makeshift table last time, who I now know to be Luciano Ghinassi, and who is also the restaurant's pastry chef, greets us at the door. He's still in a hurry, frantically greeting guests and shuffling them to their seats so he can serve the spaghetti that keeps piling up in the kitchen window, steaming, emitting a distinctly tomatoey perfume into the air.
The kitchen occupies a small corner of the restaurant, just inside the front door. Pots clang against the stove. I can hear oiled steaks sizzling over red-hot charcoal as they hit the grill. The visibly misty scent of grass-fed, dry-aged Chianina beef dominates the foyer. A waiter rushes through the crowd with a bottle of wine, a crisp white napkin draped across his arm.
I hear a loud "thwack!" I turn toward the kitchen. The chef has just slammed a meat cleaver into a 1.2m slab of porterhouse steaks, lopping off a single T-bone that weighs probably 2.2kg, the quintessential bistecca Fiorentina. I want that.
I want to stay and watch, but Ghinassi impatiently rushes us our table, the only empty spot in the restaurant. The menu is vast. But I already know why I'm here. To eat steak. And drink Barolo.
I look around the room and notice that everyone is eating more or less two things: the spaghetti or the steak. It takes me another minute to realise that most of those spaghetti bowls are ultimately being cleared to make room for steaks. Most people are eating both large bowls of spaghetti and the biggest steaks of their lives.
We forgo the spaghetti and order the lardo on toast as an appetiser. And the bistecca Fiorentina for two. Minutes later, I hear another loud "thwack!" The waiter uncorks a 2008 Barolo.
The "steak for two" could actually feed four hungry men. But I'm here for just one night – for Florence's best steak and for great Italian wine. And like everyone else in this beef-scented room, I'm feeling extravagant. There will be no leftovers. Tomorrow be damned.
And, yes, it is just as I had hoped. One of my favourite food memories is still very much alive.
If you go:
Ristorante Abaca Labia, Via del Trebbio 1/R, Florence, Italy. Dinner, Mondays-Saturdays.
Reservations: bucalapi@gmail.com
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
Latest News
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Low-cost Indian carrier SpiceJet continues to burn cash
It’s not just low-cost Australian carriers that are facing hardship. SpiceJet, India’s version of Bonza, recently announced a 72 per cent reduction in its net loss versus last year. But, despite this improvement, the airline has posted losses for six straight years. But it has secured board approval to raise up to INR 30 billion […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
SAKA Museum recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places 2024
AYANA Resort Bali’s newly-opened cultural and events centre, SAKA Museum has been recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places list for 2024. Part of AYANA Bali’s resort destination, the museum integrates Bali’s rich history with state-of-the-art facilities, making it the centrepiece for the island’s spiritual and cultural heritage. TIME magazine’s inclusion of SAKA Museum in […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Journey Beyond launches first brand-led campaign during Paris Olympics
Journey Beyond is pushing the boundaries. On The Ghan, you can't even see them!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Ascott Australia partners with Hotels for Trees
Hoteliers can take a 'Lyf' out of this book and improve their green credentials.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Victoria’s TAC Top Tourism Town Award winners for 2024
Keep looking in our own backyard. There are plenty of places to go.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Uniworld partners with Camilla Franks with Egyptian-inspired collection
We are in de-Nile about making puns combining Crocs and leopard prints, given this luxe partnership.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Aussies at Paris Olympics anxious about travel risks, with incidents already recorded
Fortunately one of our biggest gold medal hopes still held onto his pedals.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Banyan Tree Seaview Villas elevates Laguna Lang Co
If you've ever played golf in the tropics, start early. LIke way early. It's hot! Damn hot.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Silversea taps Barbara Biffi as senior vice president for global sales
Ultra-luxury and expedition cruise travel brand, Silverseas, has announced Barbara Biffi as its new senior vice president of global sales. Biffi joined the company in 2007, holding numerous positions and gaining a deep understanding of the brand, the preferences of its guests and its strategic goals, the company said. An Italian national with a wealth […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Wendy Wu unveils new Japan travel brochure and itineraries
Get outta town! Off-beat Japan will be a lot less congested we figure than the usual tourist hotspots.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
UK and Europe event organisers look to venues with sustainability integrity, ICC Sydney survey finds
Here in Sydney, you can even eat the table centrepieces. Although we advise they be cooked first.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Renos Rologas new general manager ANZ for FCM Travel
Two decades in the travel game! Let's hope Renos is in for the long haul at FCM.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Untamed Escapes to offer Cultural Day Tour from Port Lincoln in partnership with Maba Idi
International visitors travel thousands of kilometres for this experience. Time to share.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Luxe Finish Line Penthouses offer the best vantage point for the finish of the Sydney-Hobart
Long have we been following the yachts leavings Sydney Harbour and one day, we will see the finish, from this place!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
In a busy world, proximity to nature is the new luxury
Forget Raffles, treat your nearest and dearest to a stay at the local campsite. They'll be super close to nature.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Circular Quay welcomes new Korean dining experience to Sydney Place
We once took Korean-American chef David Chang around Koreatown, Eastwood. Not happy about driving rain, loved the food.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
MSC Cruises unveils a new outdoor kid-friendly attraction on World America
Drop your kid down the jaws of a shark and they come out 11 decks below. Sounds good to me.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Amadeus welcomes FCM Travel as new reseller partner of Cytric Easy
Cytric Easy, the travel management tool embedded in Microsoft Teams, is to be integrated into FCM Travel portfolio. Amadeus and FCM Travel have extended their Cytric distribution agreement to include Cytric Easy. With this new agreement, global travel management company FCM Travel, becomes a reseller of the innovative travel management collaboration solution embedded into Microsoft […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Australian travellers abandon peer-to-peer stays and gravitate back to big hotels, survey finds
Doom scrolling Airbnb for the best-possible stay options two days out from departure was wearing us down, apparently.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Quark Expeditions launches the Ultimate Summer in the Arctic sweepstakes for travel advisors
Summer in the Arctic still means it's freezing. But hopefully a winning sweepstakes tickets will warm your cockles.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘I bet it smells weird’ – Internet divided over floating restaurant in China
I you are still feeling peckish at the end of your meal, their fish tank is full. But can you eat koi?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Turn up in the Northern Territory this Spring’ campaign deals
Agents and airlines get all hot and sweaty over these enticing deals. Or did someone just turn the air-conditioning up?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Like nothing on earth’: Saudi Arabia’s new Treyam resort set in a Star Wars-style landscape
As long as Jar Jar Binks is not there, we would like a seat at the Mos Eisley Cantina please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Raffles Hotels and Resorts is set to open in Tokyo in 2028
Time to get your vision boards at the ready! Raffles is landing in Tokyo!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘A true honour’ – Andrew Stark wins Flight Centre Director’s Award for the second time
Congratulations Andrew! If you're a fan of British reality TV you might notice a familiar face.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Club Med debuts travel agent portal 2.0 with bonus prize for tops sales
See those people by the pool. That could be you. Start selling through the portal people!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Envoyage announces 2024 Australian Icons and rewards event in the Maldives
We were going to edit our name into the list but we chickened out.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
HIF Global signs collaboration agreement with Airbus on eFuels
We know it's a good thing but can a jet fuel geek out there send in a diagram explaining this please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Crystal announces release dates for 2026 itineraries
If you have started collecting 2026 itineraries then here is another one for you.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Cairns Airport unveils display of support for FNQ youth
If you were craving some winter sun now you have a cultural reason for booking a flight to Cairns.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Viking announces six new cruise itineraries
Now's the time to start learning Putonghua, Nihongo and Lhasa. Or maybe even know where these are spoken.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Join Qatar Airways, Celebrity Cruises & Klook – Showcase Your Brand at Click Frenzy Travel August 2024!
Clicking calmly will also be welcome when it comes to this particular deal. Click calmly here to find out more.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
InsideAsia Tours launches new incentive that doubles agent commission
Double commission! We like the sound of that. Hope their system doesn't crash as a result.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Push to revive Parramatta’s iconic Roxy Theatre into entertainment destination
Long have we wished for this iconic heritage cinema to be revived as a tourist destination. Still waiting.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Qatar Airways signs an expansion to Boeing 777-9 aircraft order
Known as a quiet rural town in England, the entire global aviation industry now has its eyes on Farnborough.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Flight Centre shares down following revised profit guidance
The stock market moves fast. What will the rest of the week hold for Flight Centre?