Hyderabad makes good
![Hyderabad makes good](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
From the terrace at Hyderabad’s Falaknuma Palace, I gaze out across the whitewashed balustrades set against the darkening sky as the din of the city gradually abates. In the distance, I see the flickering lights of Hitec City, Hyderabad’s thriving IT hub. And in between, the old city, cluttered with the history, chaos, grime and grit long associated with India.
Here a multitude of the subcontinent’s faces are jostling for space – the modern, the antiquated, the rich, the poor, the many different religions. In this urban enclave of Andhra Pradesh, the definition of the New India is still being thrashed out.
Scorpion-shaped Falaknuma was built in 1894 in an entirely European style by a Hyderabadi nobleman. But its lavish grandeur soon caught the eye of the city’s ruler, the sixth nizam, Mahbub Ali Pasha, who was so smitten he made it his home and eventually died here in 1911.
But despite all of Falaknuma’s grandeur, just 20 years ago the manicured courtyards were a wasteland, overgrown with weeds and swarming with snakes and rats. After the sixth nizam’s death, it was used as a guesthouse and later, left to ruin by the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan, who disliked its ostentatiousness despite being the richest man in the world at the time. It took a 10 year investment by the Taj Hotels group and the royal family of Hyderabad to return its colonnades and porticos to their former glory.
Now, it represents lavish Indian hospitality at its rose petal-strewn upper extreme – from the white horse-drawn carriage that carries us up the winding hill, to the traditional ceremony that welcomes us in through a thin veil of incense smoke.
Taj Hotels and Resorts credits the palace’s rebirth with breathing life into the city’s tourism industry. Admittedly, while its price tag may be beyond many travellers, since it opened its doors in 2010 it has swiftly become one of the world’s iconic hotels.
However, there is little trace of India in these restored bricks. Dawn’s sounding of the muezzin is a reminder of the city that lies 600 metres below at the foot of the hill. For here in Hyderabad, around 40% of the population is Muslim – a higher proportion that the national average of about 20% – and that Islamic heritage is evident throughout the city.
Monuments from the time of the Qutb Shahi kings spread out from the cool marble arches of the Mecca Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. These monuments can also be seen in the city’s heart, in the bulbous domes of the dilapidated royal tombs or through the sprawling hilltop maze of the Golconda Fort on the city’s outskirts.
And, of course, there is the Charminar. Built in 1591, the iconic mosque is as old as the city itself and, with a Hindu temple built on the outer corner of its base, is representative of the cohabitation of Hyderabad’s two main religions. Although that cohabitation has, from time to time, produced tension between Hindus and Muslims.
But sectarian strife is far from our minds as we line up in the serene orange glare of the early morning light at the base of the Charminar to climb its narrow spiral staircase. The local tourists seem almost as entranced by us as they are by the geometric curves of the architecture. From the top, tight-chested, we gaze down at the swarm of bumblebee-striped tuk tuks that buzz frantically through the dust below.
Although fascinating, Hyderabad’s rich history can be exhausting. Thankfully, this city offers ample relief in the form of retail therapy and food. Known as the city of pearls, Hyderabad is also a city of bangles. We dodge carts piled with green coconuts, resist pre-pubescent wheeler dealers flogging bags of fluorescent cotton candy then find ourselves blinded by the gleaming displays of the Laad Bazaar. Row upon row of glass cabinets line the walls of each shop along the strip, crammed with glass-studded lacquer bangles in every possible size and colour.
Dazzled, I cool off with a cup of Irani chai flamboyantly sploshed from a chipped teapot at a nearby cafe. The sweet and syrupy spiced tea washes down the dense adballah biscuit that crumbles like chalk in my mouth.
Alternately chewing and gulping, I watch the nimble fingers of the pan-wallah at the neighbouring kiosk smear thick red paste across bright green betel leaves, swiftly pack it with an assortment of nuts, spices and seeds before twisting it into a cone and handing it over for a few rupees.
While the tangy parcel, and accompanying spitting, is not to everyone’s taste, few turn their noses up at a steaming copper pot of Hyderabadi biryani. The local speciality of fragrant basmati rice layered with your choice of vegetables, meat or fish, is flavoured with saffron then served with yoghurt sauce and chilli gravy.
I shovel spoonfuls of a tangy chicken variety, followed by buttery soft lamb, into my mouth at Paradise restaurant. Back in 1953, it was just a small cafe but now it is a vast, immaculate dining hall packed with biryani-hungry hordes – a fact that may support its claim that it serves up the best version of the dish in the city.
It has also opened a branch in Hitec city, Hyderabad’s flourishing IT centre, to cater to the 300,000 hungry software professionals that work there.
Second in India only to Bangalore for its IT industry, Hitec is quickly catching up, we learn on the drive across the city. Soon we are strolling through the watered gardens and cleanly swept pathways of the Infosys campus. The pioneering IT firm began in India but has quickly spread around the world with 150,000 employees and a large number of those in Australia.
But at this campus, one of two in Hyderabad operated by Infosys, around 15,000 workers both live and work. With an average age of 24, many of them consider it an extended part of college life. The campus’s pristine gleam is replicated at Rajiv Gandhi International Airport as we prepare to depart. Built in 2008 with annual capacity for 12 million passengers, it will rise to 40 million as part of a phased expansion plan.
With its sparkling surfaces, futuristic design, international retail outlets and wifi capability, Hyderabad Airport could put its counterparts in the US and Europe to shame. But its toilet cubicles – stench-free, sanitised and immaculate – truly belong in the New India. Some things here will always stick stubbornly in the past, but there is no doubt that change is afoot.
Latest News
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Low-cost Indian carrier SpiceJet continues to burn cash
It’s not just low-cost Australian carriers that are facing hardship. SpiceJet, India’s version of Bonza, recently announced a 72 per cent reduction in its net loss versus last year. But, despite this improvement, the airline has posted losses for six straight years. But it has secured board approval to raise up to INR 30 billion […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
SAKA Museum recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places 2024
AYANA Resort Bali’s newly-opened cultural and events centre, SAKA Museum has been recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places list for 2024. Part of AYANA Bali’s resort destination, the museum integrates Bali’s rich history with state-of-the-art facilities, making it the centrepiece for the island’s spiritual and cultural heritage. TIME magazine’s inclusion of SAKA Museum in […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Journey Beyond launches first brand-led campaign during Paris Olympics
Journey Beyond is pushing the boundaries. On The Ghan, you can't even see them!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Ascott Australia partners with Hotels for Trees
Hoteliers can take a 'Lyf' out of this book and improve their green credentials.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Victoria’s TAC Top Tourism Town Award winners for 2024
Keep looking in our own backyard. There are plenty of places to go.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Uniworld partners with Camilla Franks with Egyptian-inspired collection
We are in de-Nile about making puns combining Crocs and leopard prints, given this luxe partnership.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Aussies at Paris Olympics anxious about travel risks, with incidents already recorded
Fortunately one of our biggest gold medal hopes still held onto his pedals.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Banyan Tree Seaview Villas elevates Laguna Lang Co
If you've ever played golf in the tropics, start early. LIke way early. It's hot! Damn hot.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Silversea taps Barbara Biffi as senior vice president for global sales
Ultra-luxury and expedition cruise travel brand, Silverseas, has announced Barbara Biffi as its new senior vice president of global sales. Biffi joined the company in 2007, holding numerous positions and gaining a deep understanding of the brand, the preferences of its guests and its strategic goals, the company said. An Italian national with a wealth […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Wendy Wu unveils new Japan travel brochure and itineraries
Get outta town! Off-beat Japan will be a lot less congested we figure than the usual tourist hotspots.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
UK and Europe event organisers look to venues with sustainability integrity, ICC Sydney survey finds
Here in Sydney, you can even eat the table centrepieces. Although we advise they be cooked first.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Renos Rologas new general manager ANZ for FCM Travel
Two decades in the travel game! Let's hope Renos is in for the long haul at FCM.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Untamed Escapes to offer Cultural Day Tour from Port Lincoln in partnership with Maba Idi
International visitors travel thousands of kilometres for this experience. Time to share.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Luxe Finish Line Penthouses offer the best vantage point for the finish of the Sydney-Hobart
Long have we been following the yachts leavings Sydney Harbour and one day, we will see the finish, from this place!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
In a busy world, proximity to nature is the new luxury
Forget Raffles, treat your nearest and dearest to a stay at the local campsite. They'll be super close to nature.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Circular Quay welcomes new Korean dining experience to Sydney Place
We once took Korean-American chef David Chang around Koreatown, Eastwood. Not happy about driving rain, loved the food.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
MSC Cruises unveils a new outdoor kid-friendly attraction on World America
Drop your kid down the jaws of a shark and they come out 11 decks below. Sounds good to me.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Amadeus welcomes FCM Travel as new reseller partner of Cytric Easy
Cytric Easy, the travel management tool embedded in Microsoft Teams, is to be integrated into FCM Travel portfolio. Amadeus and FCM Travel have extended their Cytric distribution agreement to include Cytric Easy. With this new agreement, global travel management company FCM Travel, becomes a reseller of the innovative travel management collaboration solution embedded into Microsoft […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Australian travellers abandon peer-to-peer stays and gravitate back to big hotels, survey finds
Doom scrolling Airbnb for the best-possible stay options two days out from departure was wearing us down, apparently.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Quark Expeditions launches the Ultimate Summer in the Arctic sweepstakes for travel advisors
Summer in the Arctic still means it's freezing. But hopefully a winning sweepstakes tickets will warm your cockles.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘I bet it smells weird’ – Internet divided over floating restaurant in China
I you are still feeling peckish at the end of your meal, their fish tank is full. But can you eat koi?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Turn up in the Northern Territory this Spring’ campaign deals
Agents and airlines get all hot and sweaty over these enticing deals. Or did someone just turn the air-conditioning up?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Like nothing on earth’: Saudi Arabia’s new Treyam resort set in a Star Wars-style landscape
As long as Jar Jar Binks is not there, we would like a seat at the Mos Eisley Cantina please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Raffles Hotels and Resorts is set to open in Tokyo in 2028
Time to get your vision boards at the ready! Raffles is landing in Tokyo!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘A true honour’ – Andrew Stark wins Flight Centre Director’s Award for the second time
Congratulations Andrew! If you're a fan of British reality TV you might notice a familiar face.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Club Med debuts travel agent portal 2.0 with bonus prize for tops sales
See those people by the pool. That could be you. Start selling through the portal people!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Envoyage announces 2024 Australian Icons and rewards event in the Maldives
We were going to edit our name into the list but we chickened out.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
HIF Global signs collaboration agreement with Airbus on eFuels
We know it's a good thing but can a jet fuel geek out there send in a diagram explaining this please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Crystal announces release dates for 2026 itineraries
If you have started collecting 2026 itineraries then here is another one for you.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Cairns Airport unveils display of support for FNQ youth
If you were craving some winter sun now you have a cultural reason for booking a flight to Cairns.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Viking announces six new cruise itineraries
Now's the time to start learning Putonghua, Nihongo and Lhasa. Or maybe even know where these are spoken.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Join Qatar Airways, Celebrity Cruises & Klook – Showcase Your Brand at Click Frenzy Travel August 2024!
Clicking calmly will also be welcome when it comes to this particular deal. Click calmly here to find out more.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
InsideAsia Tours launches new incentive that doubles agent commission
Double commission! We like the sound of that. Hope their system doesn't crash as a result.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Push to revive Parramatta’s iconic Roxy Theatre into entertainment destination
Long have we wished for this iconic heritage cinema to be revived as a tourist destination. Still waiting.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Qatar Airways signs an expansion to Boeing 777-9 aircraft order
Known as a quiet rural town in England, the entire global aviation industry now has its eyes on Farnborough.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Flight Centre shares down following revised profit guidance
The stock market moves fast. What will the rest of the week hold for Flight Centre?