A foodies' guide to Hawaii

There’s a lot more to Hawaii’s palate than a ham and pineapple pizza and shave ice that’s a brighter shade of blue than the seas surrounding the islands.

While food may not be the first thing on a traveller’s mind when booking a well-earned trip to the home of cocktail culture there’s plenty of reasons why it should be. Towering up out of the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean, the islands’ imported food is travelling a long way. That might sound like a demerit, but all it really means is that locally grown produce is even more sought after. And both cheap hole-in-the-wall eateries and fancy ocean front restaurants are catching on, touting farm to table ingredients.

Getting back to basics

Popping up all over the ancient islands are hip farmers markets where you can eat your way through a maze of specialty tents, that satisfy the taste buds and the wallet. A bright Hawaiian Saturday morning wandering through the pure offerings of the KCC Farmer’s Market located near the entrance of Waikiki’s Diamond Head State Monument can ignite a passion for flavour in even the most uninterested of foodies, fuelling a deeper appreciation for culinary pleasures.

It’s easy to get caught up in the foodie vibe, watching people explore and experience local produce, taste testing and soaking up the aromas of guava wood smoked locally raised pork, sweet and creamy wild honey, and steaming island brewed coffee. The Manoa honey company’s lehua honey has a rich, buttery flavour collected from wild bees on the island of Oahu. Served on an obligatory bagel, it is the best start to a Hawaiian inspired day of fun in the sun. The markets are also just the place to experience traditional Hawaiian fare, with a twist of course. The clean foods movement has well and truly exploded in Hawaii, with fresh green smoothies, home cooked kale chips and creamy coconut yoghurt all easy options to source.

Delicious dishes

It’s not just the little vendors plating up all the regional cuisine. Increasingly, the big hotels order directly from the growers, priding themselves on their Maui onion creations, masses of fresh pineapples, coconuts, papayas, island grown bananas and avocados as well as soft taro breads and locally grown kale.

Tourism is Hawaii’s biggest industry with agriculture ranking a not too distant third. And considering the islands’ farmers sate the hunger of millions of tourists it was only a matter of time before locals caught on and made an effort to combine the two industries. Agri-tourism and flavoursome events are quickly making a name for themselves in the Big Island of Hawaii, as it transforms itself into foodie heaven with the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival hosted in September over nine days. The feast is now garnering attention from the state’s most scrumptious chefs.

Maui is also the home to Ka’anapali Fresh; a two-day food festival held annually in August. It showcases the island’s genuine hospitality, unique creations, innovative menus and talented chefs and mixologists. But don’t despair if those flights don’t line up with these fleeting festivals, Hawaii has ample food experiences all year round.

Turtle Bay Resort on Oahu’s fabled North Shore is such one establishment keen to make its mark in the farm and sea-to-table movements that is now sweeping Hawaii.

Launching its North Shore Kula Grille Restaurant in April, Chef Conrad Aquino’s vision of sourcing produce from surrounding farms and waters is coming to life. He has made it his business to encrust and infuse as many local nutty and fruity flavours into his menu as possible.

“We are embracing the wide array of ingredients available in Hawaii to offer peak freshness, as well as to eliminate the higher carbon imprint of importing food, and to educate guests about the flavours of the islands,” Aquino said.

“We love the ever-changing selection of fresh local seafood and Kauai shrimp, as well as Big Island lobsters, abalone and kampachi.”

Kula Grille’s menus include products and specialty items from local farms and suppliers. Just a few of the offerings are juicy Ho Farm tomatoes, Marine AgriFuture sea asparagus, grass-fed Kulana beef and Kula Country onions, carrots, and watermelon radish.

For more farm-to-table experiences, head to Maui where you can experience Hawaii’s multi-ethnic culture and passion for farm fresh ingredients.

Harmonious histories

Hawaii’s culinary roots stem back to a rich Polynesian culture, a strong Japanese population, and its myriad of connections to the west.

With Polynesians ruling the islands historically, Japanese infusions and western influences are now transforming the island’s flavoursome palate.

Embracing the cultural fusion are chefs Gevin Utrillo and David 'Jay’ Ledee at their Japengo restaurant nestled on the Ka’annapli beachfront in the Hyatt Regency. “Growing up in Hawaii has flavoured my cooking style,” Utrillo said. He explains the Japengo menu is “Pacific-Rim influenced” taking the best flavours from Japan, Korea, Thailand and transforming them into modern masterpieces.

Japengo’s local sashimi selection is a highlight of the Hawaiian foodie adventure with smooth and fresh sashimi plated to order. The locally caught poke and yellowfin tuna melts in the mouth a little too easily.

Twenty years ago around 90% of Hawaii’s produce was shipped in on ocean barges from the mainland US, a spokesperson for Maui’s Sheraton Resort said. “The product quality was poor and variety was limited,” the spokesperson added. “With the current growth of Hawaii’s agricultural it is exciting place to be a chef.”

Today Hawaii has the ability to nourish a weary world wanderer both inside and out, mixing luxury eats, seaside breezes and sunny days, making it a genuine emerging culinary destination.

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