Paradise Across the Water
![Paradise Across the Water](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Some places just make you pinch yourself.
The sun has danced a merry jig all over my face throughout the day and left its trademark glow. Intermittently a cool zephyr blows in from across the calm waters, beyond the mango trees that grow from the sand, to cool my tingling brow. I sit on the balcony of my beach bungalow, relaxing with a bottle of SP lager, gazing out over a calm slice of Pacific perfection and the tropical trees that gently wave their foliage in the breeze. After some reflection I pinch myself and say, "Some fool is paying me to do this."
The stresses of my city life have evaporated as fast as my shorts have dried after a day's snorkelling in the waters off Rabaul. The memories of hiking up to the base of an active volcano are still fresh in my mind and the complex tastes of fresh, delectable market food are still pulsing across my palate.
It's been a mere 48 hours since I arrived in Papua New Guinea (PNG) but my mind is already replete with stories and my body bears the marks of many experiences.
lifting the cultural mask
It's before dawn and the tropical heat is already causing my body to sweat. From across the shadowy water with a huge glowing red sun as the backdrop the beat of a drum can be heard. Gradually something comes into view; strange silhouetted figures writhe on the water's surface. My brain cannot quite keep up with developments. I know this is the arrival of the kinawai spirits – here to preside over the impending National Mask Festival but the experience feels far more otherworldly. Maybe over-indulging on cocktails the previous night wasn't such a good idea after all.
With each passing moment the sun climbs higher. Its heat haze shimmers above the water and illuminates an awe inspiring site. Traditional dugout canoes appear on the horizon carrying dukduk spirits. The dukduks are a bulbous sphere of leaves with a large conical headdress and two spindly human legs. They look like a voodoo version of Sesame Street's Big Bird, only a lot more ominous. These spiritual leaders perform a variety of tasks within the local tribes of East New Britain, from healing to meting out justice (in darker times this would extend to performing executions) and their power is revered and feared in equal measure. Their presence on the beach and their role overseeing Kokopo's National Mask Festival is very significant.
One of the most popular events in PNG, this incredible festival takes place next year from July. It sees cultural dancers from all over the country – including the Asaro Mudmen and the New Ireland Malagan dancers – converging on the sleepy town over four spectacular days.
While visitors are encouraged to mingle freely, the festival is a local event and doesn't take place for the benefit of tourists. Accommodation sells out very quickly in the area with visitors often planning their trip 12 months in advance.
Rising from the ashes
Rabaul and its surrounding area has a history of ruin and regeneration. In September 1994 Mt Tavurvur and nearby Mt Vulcan erupted. The ensuing destruction is still evident today and a visit provides a mesmerising insight into the force of nature. The sheer scale of the devastation is hard to comprehend unless seen with your own eyes.
Yet there is tremendous beauty to be found here. Forests of palm give way to huge and desolate expanses. Black impenetrable ash is occasionally pierced by the tiny fronds of verdant green ferns that burst from the ground in defiance. Mt Tavurvur still smoulders threateningly, each day discharing small puffs of smoke and occasional debris. Tourists can visit the base of this volcano and witness bubbling geothermal pools, frozen lava flows and buried buildings.
In fact, over 80% of Rabaul's buildings were destroyed by the falling ash and now the region's capital has moved to Kokopo, which is where you'll find the majority of hotels.
There aren't many places in the world where you can roam so close to a truly active volcano and often completely without the accompaniment of any other tourists. The upshot of this is that visitors can get a truly profound insight into the beating heart of our planet's core and its incredible power.
History comes to life
PNG and the Kokoda Track are no secret, but the entire country is literally covered in World War II historical sites. In Rabaul, which was controlled by the Japanese, spectacular yet poignant reminders remain. After wreaking so much destruction to the environment, wrecked and burnt out fighter planes now lie throughout the jungle, ensnared by nature in an ironic twist.
Tunnels dug by hand are etched deep into cliff faces – many were used by the Japanese to hide from the American bombers and Australian troops as they came through the region, liberating the locals. There are intricate crane systems and rusted artillery pieces protruding from the sea, while gigantic caves still house ships used to transport Japanese troops. All in all the modern history of Rabaul is just as relevant to Australians as Gallipoli, and much closer to home.
But for a very different perspective, visitors can also dive and snorkel around decaying wartime paraphernalia. One of the most popular sites is the Italy Maru – a 5859 ton transport that was was sunk by US Navy aircraft on December 27, 1942. The ship lies on her starboard side in 54 metres of water and is renowned as one of the region's best wreck dives.
Kokopo Hotels
The Ritz it ain't. But hotels in PNG are actually a lot better than you might expect, if you pick the right properties. In Rabaul Voyager recommends Rapopo Plantation Resort (rapopo.com) or the (pictured) Kokopo Beach Bungalow Resort (kbb.com.pg).
Both properties have clean, well maintained rooms and offer a distinct island charm. Tap water is safe to drink and most importantly many of the rooms have uninterrupted water views of the bay and its backdrop of volcanic peaks.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
Latest News
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Low-cost Indian carrier SpiceJet continues to burn cash
It’s not just low-cost Australian carriers that are facing hardship. SpiceJet, India’s version of Bonza, recently announced a 72 per cent reduction in its net loss versus last year. But, despite this improvement, the airline has posted losses for six straight years. But it has secured board approval to raise up to INR 30 billion […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
SAKA Museum recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places 2024
AYANA Resort Bali’s newly-opened cultural and events centre, SAKA Museum has been recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places list for 2024. Part of AYANA Bali’s resort destination, the museum integrates Bali’s rich history with state-of-the-art facilities, making it the centrepiece for the island’s spiritual and cultural heritage. TIME magazine’s inclusion of SAKA Museum in […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Journey Beyond launches first brand-led campaign during Paris Olympics
Journey Beyond is pushing the boundaries. On The Ghan, you can't even see them!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Ascott Australia partners with Hotels for Trees
Hoteliers can take a 'Lyf' out of this book and improve their green credentials.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Victoria’s TAC Top Tourism Town Award winners for 2024
Keep looking in our own backyard. There are plenty of places to go.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Uniworld partners with Camilla Franks with Egyptian-inspired collection
We are in de-Nile about making puns combining Crocs and leopard prints, given this luxe partnership.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Aussies at Paris Olympics anxious about travel risks, with incidents already recorded
Fortunately one of our biggest gold medal hopes still held onto his pedals.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Banyan Tree Seaview Villas elevates Laguna Lang Co
If you've ever played golf in the tropics, start early. LIke way early. It's hot! Damn hot.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Silversea taps Barbara Biffi as senior vice president for global sales
Ultra-luxury and expedition cruise travel brand, Silverseas, has announced Barbara Biffi as its new senior vice president of global sales. Biffi joined the company in 2007, holding numerous positions and gaining a deep understanding of the brand, the preferences of its guests and its strategic goals, the company said. An Italian national with a wealth […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Wendy Wu unveils new Japan travel brochure and itineraries
Get outta town! Off-beat Japan will be a lot less congested we figure than the usual tourist hotspots.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
UK and Europe event organisers look to venues with sustainability integrity, ICC Sydney survey finds
Here in Sydney, you can even eat the table centrepieces. Although we advise they be cooked first.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Renos Rologas new general manager ANZ for FCM Travel
Two decades in the travel game! Let's hope Renos is in for the long haul at FCM.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Untamed Escapes to offer Cultural Day Tour from Port Lincoln in partnership with Maba Idi
International visitors travel thousands of kilometres for this experience. Time to share.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Luxe Finish Line Penthouses offer the best vantage point for the finish of the Sydney-Hobart
Long have we been following the yachts leavings Sydney Harbour and one day, we will see the finish, from this place!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
In a busy world, proximity to nature is the new luxury
Forget Raffles, treat your nearest and dearest to a stay at the local campsite. They'll be super close to nature.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Circular Quay welcomes new Korean dining experience to Sydney Place
We once took Korean-American chef David Chang around Koreatown, Eastwood. Not happy about driving rain, loved the food.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
MSC Cruises unveils a new outdoor kid-friendly attraction on World America
Drop your kid down the jaws of a shark and they come out 11 decks below. Sounds good to me.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Amadeus welcomes FCM Travel as new reseller partner of Cytric Easy
Cytric Easy, the travel management tool embedded in Microsoft Teams, is to be integrated into FCM Travel portfolio. Amadeus and FCM Travel have extended their Cytric distribution agreement to include Cytric Easy. With this new agreement, global travel management company FCM Travel, becomes a reseller of the innovative travel management collaboration solution embedded into Microsoft […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Australian travellers abandon peer-to-peer stays and gravitate back to big hotels, survey finds
Doom scrolling Airbnb for the best-possible stay options two days out from departure was wearing us down, apparently.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Quark Expeditions launches the Ultimate Summer in the Arctic sweepstakes for travel advisors
Summer in the Arctic still means it's freezing. But hopefully a winning sweepstakes tickets will warm your cockles.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘I bet it smells weird’ – Internet divided over floating restaurant in China
I you are still feeling peckish at the end of your meal, their fish tank is full. But can you eat koi?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Turn up in the Northern Territory this Spring’ campaign deals
Agents and airlines get all hot and sweaty over these enticing deals. Or did someone just turn the air-conditioning up?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Like nothing on earth’: Saudi Arabia’s new Treyam resort set in a Star Wars-style landscape
As long as Jar Jar Binks is not there, we would like a seat at the Mos Eisley Cantina please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Raffles Hotels and Resorts is set to open in Tokyo in 2028
Time to get your vision boards at the ready! Raffles is landing in Tokyo!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘A true honour’ – Andrew Stark wins Flight Centre Director’s Award for the second time
Congratulations Andrew! If you're a fan of British reality TV you might notice a familiar face.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Club Med debuts travel agent portal 2.0 with bonus prize for tops sales
See those people by the pool. That could be you. Start selling through the portal people!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Envoyage announces 2024 Australian Icons and rewards event in the Maldives
We were going to edit our name into the list but we chickened out.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
HIF Global signs collaboration agreement with Airbus on eFuels
We know it's a good thing but can a jet fuel geek out there send in a diagram explaining this please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Crystal announces release dates for 2026 itineraries
If you have started collecting 2026 itineraries then here is another one for you.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Cairns Airport unveils display of support for FNQ youth
If you were craving some winter sun now you have a cultural reason for booking a flight to Cairns.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Viking announces six new cruise itineraries
Now's the time to start learning Putonghua, Nihongo and Lhasa. Or maybe even know where these are spoken.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Join Qatar Airways, Celebrity Cruises & Klook – Showcase Your Brand at Click Frenzy Travel August 2024!
Clicking calmly will also be welcome when it comes to this particular deal. Click calmly here to find out more.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
InsideAsia Tours launches new incentive that doubles agent commission
Double commission! We like the sound of that. Hope their system doesn't crash as a result.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Push to revive Parramatta’s iconic Roxy Theatre into entertainment destination
Long have we wished for this iconic heritage cinema to be revived as a tourist destination. Still waiting.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Qatar Airways signs an expansion to Boeing 777-9 aircraft order
Known as a quiet rural town in England, the entire global aviation industry now has its eyes on Farnborough.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Flight Centre shares down following revised profit guidance
The stock market moves fast. What will the rest of the week hold for Flight Centre?