Conquering Kilimanjaro
![Conquering Kilimanjaro](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
The mountain bursts into view, its snowy peak poking defiantly through thick puffs of cloud, as our tiny propeller plane buzzes around it like a gnat. In seven days' time I will be standing right there on that very summit, an emotional wreck. My toes will be frozen, my legs will ache and my lungs will fail. I'll be wondering what possessed me to take on all 5895 metres of Mt Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest peak.
The first morning that we set foot on the mountain, the summit is still obscured by clouds. Setting off on the lesser travelled Rongai route, our porters race ahead of us – our backpacks, entire campsite and supplies for the coming week balanced on their heads.
We're on the lookout for animals, but while elephants and giraffes roam the plains that surround Kili (as it's colloquially known) it turns out that monkeys are all we're likely to see on the mountainside. Thankfully, the bushy tails of the black and white colobus monkeys are easy to spot, dangling between the glossy green leaves.
Soon, those leaves give way to scrub and our three hours of trekking comes to an end at Simba Camp at 2650 metres, where we spend our first night under canvas. There's a long journey ahead and I've been told that of all those people crazy enough to attempt to reach the summit of Kili (roughly 25,000 people each year), around one third don't actually make it.
The next morning we set off shortly after dawn, with seven hours' trekking ahead of us. "Pole, pole," our guide Joseph calls. The words are a warning in Swahili to pace ourselves. But it's difficult to walk slowly while balancing among loose shingle and tangled shrubbery. Four hours in, we pause to refuel in a cave set in the mountainside. As if by magic, the cook pulls a tasty three-course lunch from clattering pots in the craggy corner – cucumber soup, chicken stew and sliced tropical fruit – and we pounce on it fast.
Wiping our mouths, we then set off again. Three more hours of trekking will take us to our next camping spot – Kikelelwe Camp at 3600 metres. "Sippy sippy," is Joseph's next command. Obediently we suck from our water bladders, mindful of earlier warnings we should be drinking between four and five litres a day. But we just aren't used to imbibing so much in such a short space of time. The need to pee comes frequently and urgently.
"Pissy pissy," Tim calls from the back of the line. Joseph laughs patiently as the line grinds to a halt. The sound of zippers opening is heard as darkness and damp close in.
The next day we set out bright and early once again, but the altitude is starting to have an impact with headaches, stomach upsets and flatulence taking hold. "Oops, sorry!" Harry mutters for the umpteenth time. And it's not just Harry who's exploding at frequent intervals, it's everyone. "Better out than in," approves Dr Beks – words that the boys take as encouragement to follow Harry's vile lead. "Torpedo coming through," says Marty. "Fire in the hole," says Rambo.
Thankfully, just over the next hill, we spot our campsite. And it's a beauty. At 4300 metres, Mawenzi Tarn lies at the foot of Mount Mawenzi, complete with an oasis-like pool of water and breathtaking views down the mountain. Even the long-drop doesn't smell so bad. Two nights in the same camping spot with the sun shining starts to feel like a holiday. We go for a three hour trek up into the hills surrounding the camp in the morning, with the rest of the day at leisure. The extra night here will help us acclimatise, before we make our way along the mountain's long saddle to Kibo Camp at 4750 metres. There we'll rest for just a few hours before making our final ascent.
Summit night arrives. We trek for six hours in the pitch black, lashed by chilling winds. We zigzag up the near vertical face of the mountain, through slippery gravel, then larger rocks. It's almost impossible to breathe. My water and snacks have frozen solid.
When we arrive at Gilman's Point on the crater rim, 5795 metres above sea level, I'm a little light-headed from lack of oxygen. This white landscape of dramatic glaciers, icy pillars and vast frosted lakes high above the clouds is like another world. But we still have another two hours to go until we get to Uhuru Peak – the summit of the mountain. Mercifully, the sun is now creeping through the breaking clouds and we can see the crater rim arcing away from us in the distance. A collective resolution sets in – we're determined not to let Kili get the better of us.
"Let's keep moving," our guide Peter urges. If we stay still for too long, we will freeze. When we finally spot the famous green sign that marks the end of our journey, we're numb with cold and exhaustion. It's hard to comprehend or even care that we've actually made it. But we have. We're standing on top of Kilimanjaro. The gruelling trek, the bone-chilling cold – even my companions' bouts of odorous gas – it's all been worthwhile to experience this moment.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
Latest News
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Low-cost Indian carrier SpiceJet continues to burn cash
It’s not just low-cost Australian carriers that are facing hardship. SpiceJet, India’s version of Bonza, recently announced a 72 per cent reduction in its net loss versus last year. But, despite this improvement, the airline has posted losses for six straight years. But it has secured board approval to raise up to INR 30 billion […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
SAKA Museum recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places 2024
AYANA Resort Bali’s newly-opened cultural and events centre, SAKA Museum has been recognised in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places list for 2024. Part of AYANA Bali’s resort destination, the museum integrates Bali’s rich history with state-of-the-art facilities, making it the centrepiece for the island’s spiritual and cultural heritage. TIME magazine’s inclusion of SAKA Museum in […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Journey Beyond launches first brand-led campaign during Paris Olympics
Journey Beyond is pushing the boundaries. On The Ghan, you can't even see them!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Ascott Australia partners with Hotels for Trees
Hoteliers can take a 'Lyf' out of this book and improve their green credentials.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Victoria’s TAC Top Tourism Town Award winners for 2024
Keep looking in our own backyard. There are plenty of places to go.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Uniworld partners with Camilla Franks with Egyptian-inspired collection
We are in de-Nile about making puns combining Crocs and leopard prints, given this luxe partnership.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Aussies at Paris Olympics anxious about travel risks, with incidents already recorded
Fortunately one of our biggest gold medal hopes still held onto his pedals.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Banyan Tree Seaview Villas elevates Laguna Lang Co
If you've ever played golf in the tropics, start early. LIke way early. It's hot! Damn hot.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Silversea taps Barbara Biffi as senior vice president for global sales
Ultra-luxury and expedition cruise travel brand, Silverseas, has announced Barbara Biffi as its new senior vice president of global sales. Biffi joined the company in 2007, holding numerous positions and gaining a deep understanding of the brand, the preferences of its guests and its strategic goals, the company said. An Italian national with a wealth […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Wendy Wu unveils new Japan travel brochure and itineraries
Get outta town! Off-beat Japan will be a lot less congested we figure than the usual tourist hotspots.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
UK and Europe event organisers look to venues with sustainability integrity, ICC Sydney survey finds
Here in Sydney, you can even eat the table centrepieces. Although we advise they be cooked first.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Renos Rologas new general manager ANZ for FCM Travel
Two decades in the travel game! Let's hope Renos is in for the long haul at FCM.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Untamed Escapes to offer Cultural Day Tour from Port Lincoln in partnership with Maba Idi
International visitors travel thousands of kilometres for this experience. Time to share.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Luxe Finish Line Penthouses offer the best vantage point for the finish of the Sydney-Hobart
Long have we been following the yachts leavings Sydney Harbour and one day, we will see the finish, from this place!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
In a busy world, proximity to nature is the new luxury
Forget Raffles, treat your nearest and dearest to a stay at the local campsite. They'll be super close to nature.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Circular Quay welcomes new Korean dining experience to Sydney Place
We once took Korean-American chef David Chang around Koreatown, Eastwood. Not happy about driving rain, loved the food.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
MSC Cruises unveils a new outdoor kid-friendly attraction on World America
Drop your kid down the jaws of a shark and they come out 11 decks below. Sounds good to me.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Amadeus welcomes FCM Travel as new reseller partner of Cytric Easy
Cytric Easy, the travel management tool embedded in Microsoft Teams, is to be integrated into FCM Travel portfolio. Amadeus and FCM Travel have extended their Cytric distribution agreement to include Cytric Easy. With this new agreement, global travel management company FCM Travel, becomes a reseller of the innovative travel management collaboration solution embedded into Microsoft […]
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Australian travellers abandon peer-to-peer stays and gravitate back to big hotels, survey finds
Doom scrolling Airbnb for the best-possible stay options two days out from departure was wearing us down, apparently.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Quark Expeditions launches the Ultimate Summer in the Arctic sweepstakes for travel advisors
Summer in the Arctic still means it's freezing. But hopefully a winning sweepstakes tickets will warm your cockles.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘I bet it smells weird’ – Internet divided over floating restaurant in China
I you are still feeling peckish at the end of your meal, their fish tank is full. But can you eat koi?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Turn up in the Northern Territory this Spring’ campaign deals
Agents and airlines get all hot and sweaty over these enticing deals. Or did someone just turn the air-conditioning up?
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘Like nothing on earth’: Saudi Arabia’s new Treyam resort set in a Star Wars-style landscape
As long as Jar Jar Binks is not there, we would like a seat at the Mos Eisley Cantina please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Raffles Hotels and Resorts is set to open in Tokyo in 2028
Time to get your vision boards at the ready! Raffles is landing in Tokyo!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
‘A true honour’ – Andrew Stark wins Flight Centre Director’s Award for the second time
Congratulations Andrew! If you're a fan of British reality TV you might notice a familiar face.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Club Med debuts travel agent portal 2.0 with bonus prize for tops sales
See those people by the pool. That could be you. Start selling through the portal people!
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Envoyage announces 2024 Australian Icons and rewards event in the Maldives
We were going to edit our name into the list but we chickened out.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
HIF Global signs collaboration agreement with Airbus on eFuels
We know it's a good thing but can a jet fuel geek out there send in a diagram explaining this please.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Crystal announces release dates for 2026 itineraries
If you have started collecting 2026 itineraries then here is another one for you.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Cairns Airport unveils display of support for FNQ youth
If you were craving some winter sun now you have a cultural reason for booking a flight to Cairns.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Viking announces six new cruise itineraries
Now's the time to start learning Putonghua, Nihongo and Lhasa. Or maybe even know where these are spoken.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Join Qatar Airways, Celebrity Cruises & Klook – Showcase Your Brand at Click Frenzy Travel August 2024!
Clicking calmly will also be welcome when it comes to this particular deal. Click calmly here to find out more.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
InsideAsia Tours launches new incentive that doubles agent commission
Double commission! We like the sound of that. Hope their system doesn't crash as a result.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Push to revive Parramatta’s iconic Roxy Theatre into entertainment destination
Long have we wished for this iconic heritage cinema to be revived as a tourist destination. Still waiting.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Qatar Airways signs an expansion to Boeing 777-9 aircraft order
Known as a quiet rural town in England, the entire global aviation industry now has its eyes on Farnborough.
![](https://www.travelweekly.com.au/wp-content/themes/bandtv1/img/default.png)
Flight Centre shares down following revised profit guidance
The stock market moves fast. What will the rest of the week hold for Flight Centre?