Why it’s time to return to Egypt
When I told people I planned to visit Egypt, family, friends – even waiters – replied, “Wow!” and “Amazing!” But their eyes said, “Are you insane?”
Egypt’s once-thriving tourism industry has been plummeting since the 2011 popular uprising that ousted longtime autocrat Hosni Mubarak. Recent attacks have added to the uncertainty: the mistaken killings of eight Mexican tourists by government security forces, a bombing outside the Italian Consulate in Cairo, a foiled attack on the famed Karnak Temple.
Each headline brought a flood of texts from loved ones. Yes, I saw the news, I responded. I endlessly trolled TripAdvisor, searching “Is it safe to go to Egypt?” even after booking with a highly rated tour company. My stomach did some flips on the plane, until I spotted the pyramids from the air.
There are no safety guarantees in a restive country like Egypt – or anywhere. But with a guide by my side, I never felt unsafe. Plus, I was too exhausted from sightseeing to wander around on my own.
The guides manoeuvre you through Cairo’s heart-stopping traffic – where lanes are merely suggestions and tapping the bumpers of merging cars is commonplace – and allow you to bypass hassles elsewhere.
For example, my guide took me straight to the camel-ride operator he trusts near the pyramids, avoiding what he said would be a raucous, grasping crowd prone to physically pulling the arms of those approaching on their own.
Instead, I hopped right on the animal, a 10-year-old boy took the reins and we set out into the sun-drenched desert alone. I was nervous the camel might toss me off with a kid in control, but no problems materialised and I was able to re-create a photo I saw every day on the wall of my childhood home: my father on camelback in the dusty desert circa 1980.
My guides also took pro photos, key for a solo traveller like me. The boy expertly posed me, telling me to hold out my finger to make it look like I was touching the top of a pyramid. My Cairo guide snapped me sitting on the steps of the Great Pyramid and instructed me to pose so I appeared to kiss the Sphinx.
Every guide, driver and other worker dependent on tourists and tips was eager to please, pressing me to drink enough water and taking me to government-run shops for authentic, beautiful gifts, including hand-painted papyrus and hand-chiselled statuettes.
You still haggled, but it was nothing like the relentless street touts, who joke, cajole and harass tourists into buying cheap wares.
My guides said tourist police at major attractions won’t allow sellers to get overly aggressive with visitors, but vendors were pushy, especially with tourism ebbing so dramatically. You can say, “No, thank you,” ignore them and keep walking, but at the cultural sites, where you have to traverse a gauntlet of shops, there’s no avoiding them.
One seller followed me for 15 minutes to a temple entrance, making me promise to stop in his shop, while others shouted, “Welcome to Alaska!” – a nod to the suffocating heat. He found me again as I stopped for a drink and pursued me as I tried to leave. He and others held up shirts, pointed to “Made in Egypt” tags and tossed them at you if you refused.
On the Nile cruise ship, souvenir-sellers in speed boats threw their ropes to the crew, calling “Hello!” and “Hola!” to passengers above and hurling up blankets to anyone who peeked over the railing.
It helped that I’d prepared for the worst when it came to street vendors, traffic and even the crushing poverty. Through the window of my Cairo hotel, I saw half-completed apartment buildings, twisting metal on their roofs awaiting new floors. Rubbish piled up and spilled into the city’s polluted section of the Nile, left for thin horses and donkeys to nibble.
It also was odd to stand in Tahrir Square across from the Egyptian Museum, ground zero for the revolution, in an area where hotels and businesses still haven’t recovered. The green plot seemed small compared with its significance. An adjacent burnt-out building stood slated for demolition four years later.
But for those with a sense of adventure, visiting now has big advantages. Tourists were few enough that I got photos at many temples with no one in the background. There were 40 people on my cruise, a luxurious journey with truly fantastic food and service that normally boasts 140 passengers.
While you can learn about mummies in school and admire photos of the Great Pyramid, that’s nothing like actually clambering up its ancient steps. Or staring down the dark tomb of Merneptah in Luxor’s Valley of the Kings to see a blanket of etched and painted stars, the blues and yellows as vibrant today as they were 3000 years ago.
After gazing into the golden eyes of King Tut’s death mask, dipping my hand in the Nile during a sunset boat ride and tracing hieroglyphs on ancient temple walls with my finger, I must say: It’s time to go.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
egyptLatest News
Holland America Line gives agents the chance to visit Alaska on 11-day Famil
If you've ever wanted to see a Polar Bear (and who doesn't?), now is your time.
More than 65 luxury agents gather in Sydney for Best of the Best dinner
This looks like a fabulous do. We imagine there may be a few (or maybe 65) sore heads this morning!
Globally-renowned chefs gather for Vivid Food 2024
As a human, we agree that food is a fundamental part of the human experience. Some might say the most fundamental.
Air New Zealand returns to Hobart and Seoul
If you notice an uptick in Kiwis making their way through the Mona, you know why.
European Waterways targets multi-generational families with ‘floating villa’ deal
The jury is still out on whether spending a week on a 'floating villa' with family is a hell or a paradise.
Luxury Escapes launches ‘sail away’ sale
Rest assured, you'll be getting your 'sails' and 'sales' mixed up for the rest of the day.
Rex-owned National Jet Express adds weekly charter between Brisbane and Orange
This is for mining and civil contractors, so please, put your holiday attire away.
Let the games begin. Viking introduces eye-watering benefits for the industry’s top 10 advisors
Did someone say 'trip to Venice'? Hold my coat, this one is far too good to miss!
Best friends or frenemies? What is the REAL relationship between sales and marketing?
We can all stop fighting over the corner office because our mothers were right - we are all important in our own way.
The Walshe Group Announces Two Key Appointments
What we really want to know is whether they got joint or separate welcome parties.
FAMIL: Agents explore the delights of Mauritius on 7-day tour
Go green with envy as you read this fabulous itinerary! Time to book that second honeymoon.
Hamad International recognised as world’s best airport at 2024 Skytrax World Airport Awards
Hamad airport is so good it is almost considered a destination in itself. Ballina, up your game.
Saudi Arabia highlights tourism investment opportunities at global investment event
Now is the time to start looking at Saudi Arabia if you are not already. There's big things to come.
“Rampant” – Aussies warned as dengue fever cases spike in Bali
Worried about Bali belly? Now you have something else to worry about.
TTC Tour Brand reveals slew of deals across operators including Trafalgar and Contiki
Everybody loves a bargain and you could do lot a lot worse than check out these deals from TTC!
Fiji Airways partners with Porter Airlines in US growth bid
Any initiative that gets more people visiting the delights of Fiji is a good initiative.
Flight Centre launches CruiseHQ – a marketplace exclusively for agents
The cruise industry has surpassed pre-Covid levels so this isn't one to miss!
Feeling festive? Wendy Wu tours unwraps Christmas collection
Get the Christmas hols booked now and avoid spending it with that elderly relative with dubious political views.
OPINION: In a world of screens, we crave experience
If you get feelings of deep shame and regret when you see your screen time, don't worry - you're not alone.
Sun Princess: High-end dining and world class entertainment awaits
If you are a foodie and you are not currently on the Sun Princess, we really have to ask - what are you doing?
YouGov: 2 in 5 Aussies would pay more for a sustainable hotel
If you want to be REALLY sustainable you can go camping. You just might lose the will to live.
“Can planes swim?” – Planes become boats as Dubai Airport is savaged by severe storm
Unfortunately, "can planes swim?" is a real life question and not an opener to a really bad joke...
Explora journeys reveals bespoke outdoor furniture designed by Matteo Nunziati
This is making your plastic table and chairs look really bad now, isn't it?
Bangkok Airways targets growth with renewed Sabre deal
Two stories abut Sabre's growth in one week and its only Wednesday! Watchout world.
PR agency Example wins pitch for InterContinental Sydney
We also went in for the contract but they said that a 'Be Our Guest'- themed TikTok was unoriginal! The cheek.
Norwegian Cruise Line reveals culinary experience aboard Norwegian Aqua
Once again, this TW journalist REALLY regrets writing this before getting lunch.
Signature Queensland hosts luxury tourism event
Known for its tropical beaches and unique wildlife, Queensland also offers luxury.
Capella Sydney recognised in prestigious Travel + Leisure’s 2024 ‘it list’ of best new hotels
You know that 'it girl' at school who everyone wanted to hang out with? Capella is the hotel version of that.
Rex launches 72-hour fare sale with NO school holiday blackout so you can take your kids (if you want to)
Sadly, leaving your children at home whilst you go on holiday is generally frowned upon.
Adventure World offers chance to connect with “heart and soul” of the US
I mean who hasn't dreamed of a road trip around the US?! Go with Adventure World and you're less likely to get lost.
Fiji’s family-owned luxury resort Likuliku Lagoon launches its own app
We were relieved to find out that having a "concierge in your pocket" referred to an app on your phone.
Hawaii: The US’ laid-back front door for Australians
If you needed another sign that you should definitely head to Hawaii - this is it!
Sabre targets Asia Pacific growth with latest hire
Call the Avengers! Sabre continues its bid for world domination with latest hire.
Air New Zealand signs its largest EVER deal for sustainable aviation fuel
Air New Zealand makes huge step towards sustainable travel. We bet it recycles its rubbish properly too.
IHG Hotels & Resorts continues regional growth with Sunshine Coast Holiday Inn
This Holiday Inn looks considerably flashier than some of the ones we have stayed at in our time.
Budget carrier Scoot welcomes first of 9 E190-E2 aircrafts
Here at TW we would like to offer Embraer E190-E2 a warm welcome! It's not easy being the first of the fleet.