In this instalment, I think we had the very best day of the trip. If you missed parts one and two, here they are. Enjoy the pictures of this amazing continent.

Day Four: Detaille Island

I’d be lying if I said I was thrilled when the PA kicked into life and our expedition leader Flo woke us up at 5.27am to announce our imminent crossing of the Antarctic Circle, at the exact position of 66º 33.3’S 067º 32.0’W. My irritation was probably linked to the bar’s excellent selection of fine wines amply sampled the evening before.

Regardless, it’s an accomplishment few achieve. I forgave expedition leader Flo for the early wake-up call as it meant we could venture out for an excursion soon after breakfast.

Our original plan of visiting “Base W” on Detaille Island was foiled by a slippery, dangerous ice overhang which prevented us from safely landing, however, we set out in our Zodiacs and were able to view this most historic hut from our bobbing fleet of rubber boats.

Crab eater seals laze on an ice flow. Have they been making snowmen when we weren’t looking?

We also journeyed around and through the broken sea ice surrounding the island, greeting lazing crabeater seals and the occasional Adelie penguin perched atop an iceberg. We were sufficiently chilled from our hour or so out in the Zodiacs and enjoyed yet another lunch feast back on board. Seriously, three-course lunches and a selection of can’t-say-no-to desserts was beginning to show on my waistline.

The afternoon offered truly stunning ice navigation as we advanced towards the northern end of the Gullet, a narrow transit between mainland Antarctica and Adelaide Island, known as the gateway to the infamous Marguerite Bay. Low, dark grey clouds hung heavy on perfectly calm seas dotted with a mixture of broken sea and glacial ice.

The trick with icebergs is to stop taking pictures of them if you can. You really can’t!

As we approached 67º South, MV Greg Mortimer reached what felt like a wall … kilometres of closely packed sea ice stretching ahead as far as the eye could see, with giant iceberg castles frozen in between floes.

What did I just say about icebergs?

This signalled the end of our journey through the Gullet as it would not be possible for our vessel to pass the sheer volume of ice that lay in front of us.

Yeah, we’re not getting through that any time soon! Reverse out of there skipper.

We marked the occasion with a group photo on Deck 7 and then continued our way north and west of Liard Island. While underway, we gathered in the Lecture Theatre for a presentation by Dan Stavert on ice, the theme of our day! Later Dot talked about the IGY, Steve the innovative Rymill expedition and Massimo showed a brief video he’d previously made about Detaille Hut.

We sailed south along the oceanside coast of Adelaide Island on our way to Marguerite Bay, anticipating what adventures tomorrow will bring as the furthest south of the Peninsula expedition vessels.

Day Five: Stonington Island, Horseshoe Island

What a way to kick off the month of March. And in this trip of highs, if I had to pick one day as a highlight, this was certainly it.

After our passage south through the Gullet was blocked by an amazing array of glacial and sea ice, we were not to be deterred. West of Adelaide Island became our new route to Marguerite Bay.

And we made it! The furthest south we will get to, we tick off 68º30´00´´S, 67º00´00´´W as our turnaround point. Well done to everybody. So much has been achieved and it’s still only day five.

Could our luck continue by evading the notorious weather around these parts? Could we have clear skies with uninterrupted views of this amazing landscape and wildlife surrounding us? Could we make it ashore? You betcha! We are so thankful for our talented navigation team for being the only Expedition cruising vessel this side of the Antarctic circle.

Kayaks are dropped making the only ripple in what is the calmest of bays. Snorks are snorkelling and the rest of us make our way to a tiny, yet most interesting and beautiful place you could imagine. Stonington Island. Wow! A short walk up through fresh powder snow revealed the inner beauty of this wonderful island. Massive ice cliffs facing us, protruding from the continent ready to break off into icebergs at any moment. Crabeater and Weddell seals lazing about with bellies full of krill, and not forgetting the Adelie penguins in the final stages of moulting ready to plunge into the seas before they freeze over.

Adele Penguins on Stonington Island seem irresistibly drawn towards the Greg Mortimer. Who can blame them?

We take a step back in time and explore both the American and British scientific bases which also served as a staging post for access from the Island to the mainland via the Northeast Glacier using dog sledges.

The British Base on Stonington Island. It’s amazing to think about the early explorers occupying this most hostile yet beautiful of places.

The huts in Antarctica are amazingly well preserved and looked after as historical records.

Did I mention Stonington Island is spectacularly beautiful?

A full morning was had but first one more thing before lunchtime. The Polar Plunge!

The author can confirm he did the polar plunge.

Boy, oh boy. If these Antarctic waters were any colder, they would be solid. Distorted faces, clenched teeth, gasping breaths, the occasional expletive but a whole lot of fun. This is yet another memorable moment we take from this trip.

And yes, it’s cold.

A warm shower, a hot lunch and we saddle up to explore Horseshoe Island. The station here was used from 1955 to 1960 for topographic, geology, geophysics, and meteorology survey. Another step back in time but this hut has really stood the test of time. We explore many other parts of Horseshoe Island and observe nesting Skua’s, Adelie penguins, Fur and Weddell seals. I’ll let the pictures do the talking from here.

Kayaking is a truly beautiful way to see Antarctica.

The hut at Horseshoe Island is spectacular with a rare blast of sun.

We’re going to need a bigger boat.

Your Uber is approaching Antarctica style.

Pretty as it is, you don’t want to be left behind.

Today is topped off by heading up to Deck eight to enjoy Aurora’s famous outdoor BBQ while we cruise around Marguerite Bay taking in the sunset, gazing in wonderment once more at our enchanting surrounds.

We couldn’t have had better weather to enjoy the rooftop BBQ.