Tas tourism rail keeps driver dream alive
A day at the office for James Smith is the envy of many people: sounding the whistle, easing off the throttle and slouching an arm proudly out of the engine car.
The 33-year-old is standing strong in a dying profession as a senior driver for Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway.
“I reckon I’m one of only three full-time, paid puffing billy steam drivers left in Australia,” Smith tells AAP after bringing a shiny green locomotive to a stop at Lower Landing platform, about an hour after setting off from the west coast centre of Strahan.
Following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, Smith, who lives at nearby Queenstown, has spent his professional life working on the century-old railway.
“I started right at the bottom, walking the track and making sure there were no loose bulbs,” Smith said.
But these days he is at the helm, taking scores of tourists a day twisting and chuffing through spectacular rainforest for what is a most palatable history lesson.
Back in the day when Smith’s grandfather worked on the railway, it served as the sole means of access to Queenstown’s Mt Lyell copper mine from Strahan’s Macquarie Harbour port.
The stunning scenery wraps around steep gorges that tumble down to the King River in a landscape that gets rain more often than not, and proved a ghastly challenge for those who spent years carving out the railway line in the 1890s.
Their sweat and toil means visitors can still experience the unique cool-temperate rainforest, but these days in the lap of luxury.
The 35-kilometre track, which includes 40 bridges, has undergone an extensive $30 million-plus restoration.
Each of the refurbished original carriages that service the railway are lined with a range of native local timbers including Tasmanian oak, sassafras and blackwood.
Even the locomotives used by the tourism venture were part of the original story, including a 119-year-old Glasgow-built model.
In a neat twist, the engines have been converted to run on used motor oil.
They still produce the same much-loved puffing billy steam hiss, and go clickety-clack along the track, all the while leaving a smaller carbon footprint.
Smith does not wind up the speed too much: 25km/h is about the maximum.
At some points the train relies on a Swiss-designed rack and pinion system (teeth underneath the engine locking into grooves on the track) to aid its climb up steep ascents, which reach up to 240 metres above sea level.
Passengers feel only a few bumps, but not enough for those in first class to spill their complimentary glass of Josef Chromy sparkling wine.
The passing scenery needs to be experienced to be believed.
The train threads itself through narrow rock faces, over bridges across plunging gorges, and passes beneath stunning canopies of native forest.
The surface of the dark and gentle-looking nearby King River is broken only by a few raindrops and the soft foliage of Huon pine trees along the bank droop like parched creatures craning their necks for a drink.
This region is also the home to the leatherwood tree, famous for the production of honey by the same name.
A knowledgeable commentator, speaking live during the rail journey, recounts tales of how rail workers in the 1800s used honey as a “bushman’s bandage” to seal cuts and grazes.
There’s not an endless commentary, just the occasional useful snippet of information.
It’s all very relaxing. And with no mobile phone reception, there are no interruptions.
And while many passengers busy themselves taking photos from the tail of the train, snapping landscapes framed by the thinning engine steam, just as many are up the front keeping a close eye on Smith at the controls.
IF YOU GO:
Trips on the West Coast Wilderness Railway leave from Queenstown and Strahan.
Half-day journeys start from $95 an adult and $40 a child.
Full-day trips start from $149 an adult and $65 a child.
Family package deals are available.
For more information visit www.wcwr.com.au
* The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Tasmania and West Coast Wilderness Railway.
Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au
tasmania West Coast Wilderness RailwayLatest News
ANZAC Battlefield travel on the 2025 bucketlist
As Anzac Day dawns, agents prepare for a surge in bookings for the 110th anniversary of the Anzac Cove landings.
Former Channel 9 Getaway host and founder of TRIBE Jules Lund to speak at Travel DAZE
From blond-tipped travel reporter to Travel DAZE speaker, Jules Lund cuts through the BS.
HX’s Roald Amundsen finds aliens in the Antarctic
Forget whales, HX's MS Roald Amundsen captures aliens in the Antarctic - and they're not pretty.
Mayhem in France as 70% of flights face cancellation
I mean it wouldn't be France if there wasn't at least one strike.
Etihad Airways launches double-decker service with world’s only in-air three-room suite
We imagine falling asleep in the three-room suite is superior to falling asleep on your neighbour's shoulder.
Norwegian Cruise Line launches 2024 Europe travel season
Europe certainly has a lot of ports. Its time for Australia to up its game.
“The power of travel for positive change” – Intrepid’s Jenny Gray hails controversial all-women Saudi Arabia trip
There is an awful lot to love about this tour from Intrepid. Where do we sign up?
Princess names the Sun, unveils Sanctuary Collection + Star Princess to Alaska in ’26
A huge bottle of Veuve was smashed into the side of the ship to make things official. So no, we couldn't snag a glass.
Collette special offers across peak northern summer season
If you are craving a trip to Europe then grab this deal with both of your grubby hands.
Air India and All Nippon codeshare between the two countries
Here at TW we agreed that the photo would have worked better if they had swapped planes.
A&K offers minimum 18 weeks paid parental leave
Contrary to what the photo suggests this benefit is only applicable for humans. Back to work Mrs Jumbo.
NH Hotel Group rebrands as Minor Hotels Europe & Americas
Hang around the bends of the hotels. We imagine they will be full of a lot of branded content.
Scenic Eclipse II – the business of creating unforgettable life-changing memories
These cruise brothers from another mother offer a view of cruising on Scenic Eclipse II that is poles apart.
MSC builds new hospital ship with Mercy Ships
If you want to read a story that puts a smile on your face then this is the one for you.
“I peed on myself watching this” – Social media users squirm at Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of The Seas 55ft dive video
TW is not responsible for any involuntary actions your body might have after watching this video.
FLIGHT REVIEW: Qantas Boeing 787 Dreamliner business class
The real bonus is you're unlikely to be around screaming children. Hoorah!
Traveltek offers travel agents new rapid deploy cruise website
As always, if you have any issue with the platform, just turn it off and on again.
Experience whale watching & classical music at the Australian Festival of Chamber Music in Townsville
Disappointedly, the whales do not start singing in tune with the orchestra. Opportunity missed.
Fond, very Fond. London hotel famed for James Bond link adds ‘Classic Comforts’ lunch menu
James Bond author Ian Fleming was so fond if this hotel, it inspired the legendary phrase ‘shaken, not stirred’.
What sets Eclipse Travel apart with Africa expert Hilary Dubyk: Travel Weekly TV
If you want to know more about Africa, then Hilary Dubyk is your person.
Surge in Australians visiting Japan
Feel like all of your friends have just returned from Europe? Now it's Japan.
Seabourn announces Western Kimberley Traditional Owners as Godparents of Seabourn Pursuit
Seabourn has named Western Kimberley Traditional Owners, the Wunambal Gaambera, as Godparents of the ultra-luxury purpose-built Seabourn Pursuit. It is the first cruise line to appoint Traditional Owners as godparents of a ship. Seabourn Pursuit embarks on its inaugural season in the Kimberley region this June. The naming ceremony will take place on Seabourn Pursuit’s […]
Sydney named 17th best place to work remotely
If you struggle to get a seat within Sydney's coffee shops, you now know why.
W Melbourne grows sales team
We appreciate the thought that has gone into this team photo.
Cunard welcomes new ship Queen Anne
This might be the most impressive ship handover in ship handover history.
Intrepid Travel appoints Yvette Thompson as general manager sales & marketing ANZ
It isn't end-of-day Monday and Yvette Thompson has already nabbed herself an impressive promotion.
Anna Fawcett re-joins Global Touring in newly-created APAC role
With such an impressive CV, Global Touring is no doubt thrilled to have Fawcett back.
“We know our response has been far from perfect” – Emirates’ open letter following Dubai flooding
If you also need to write an apology letter, then this is a pretty good template.
Malolo Island Resort opens brand new Spa
Fiji’s Malolo Island has added another string to its bow – opening its $1.3 million day spa on Thursday, 18th April 2024. (Lead Image: matriarch Rosie Whitton with spa staff) Located at the edge of the resort’s luscious patch of tropical rainforest, the new “Leilani’s Spa” adds another level of elevated experiences to Malolo’s already […]
Virgin Australia’s HILARIOUS second instalment of the ‘Bring on Wonderful’ campaign
We don't use the word 'hilarious' lightly, but this is worthy of the title.
Visit Sunshine Coast reveals new brand identity
If you were looking for another reason to visit the Sunshine Coast then this is it.
Sofitel launches brand campaign starring Sex Education’s Gillian Anderson
We can confirm the content of this video is less spicy than Sex Education.
Holland America Line gives agents the chance to visit Alaska on 11-day Famil
If you've ever wanted to see a Polar Bear (and who doesn't?), now is your time.
More than 65 luxury agents gather in Sydney for Best of the Best dinner
This looks like a fabulous do. We imagine there may be a few (or maybe 65) sore heads this morning!
Globally-renowned chefs gather for Vivid Food 2024
As a human, we agree that food is a fundamental part of the human experience. Some might say the most fundamental.
Air New Zealand returns to Hobart and Seoul
If you notice an uptick in Kiwis making their way through the Mona, you know why.