You know a shopping district is popular when it requires a police officer for crowd control.

Horns from yellow taxis blare on Fifth Avenue as journeys across the city are stalled by hordes of shoppers crossing footpaths, directed by whistle trills and white glove commands.

In the last five years, the New York shopping scene has changed dramatically.

Concept stores have sprung up, fusing fashion with rooftop hangouts and even flower shops. Once home to only expensive designer labels, Fifth Avenue is now peppered with high street chains such as H&M and Banana Republic, while, conversely, hip downtown now houses catwalk giants, such as the newly opened Celine store.

Upscale and affordable have merged. For the shopper, that means a more varied retail playground. On my own trip to uptown Fifth Avenue, I barely spot the distinctive upper-crust pearl and twin-set brigade.

In my favourite shopping district of SoHo, every other woman parades the streets like an off-duty Alexander Wang model; all long limbs, monochrome staples and black biker jackets. Here, high end labels exist discreetly; I dip in and out of cool, loft spaces with barely-there shop signs.

Macaroon stands decorate street corners and a queue runs out of the door for Georgetown designer cupcakes on Mercer Street. Shoppers sit on the footpath delving into their half dozen box of frosted heaven, surrounded by makeshift walls of glossy, branded bags.

Even the street market stalls have an upmarket feel, selling rose gold jewellery and one-off arty prints.

Hypnotised by a window display of shoes, I wander into Barneys on Wooster Street, one of four Barneys department stores in New York selling high-end style in an unstuffy, urban setting with white walls and concrete floors.

I stroke the Alexander Wang bags as if they were kittens and a shop assistant swoops to my arm.

"Oh, you're British," he quickly observes.

"The Brits just love Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim bags… It's a big saving," he says in a hushed tone, before pointing to the store's best-selling Pashli satchel. It's a snip at $US895 ($A968).

My shopping pal and I dash from one shopping district to the next, using the city's neat grid system to navigate our way.

The moment I'm in midtown, it's virtually impossible to lose sight of my landmark hotel on the edge of leafy Central Park.

The new Park Hyatt occupies the first 25 floors of the skyline-dominating 90-storey One57 building.

All shopped out, I retreat to the impossibly luxurious Spa Nalai on the 25th floor. I take a scenic yoga class overlooking the skyscrapers and yellow taxis, swim in the heated pool piped with underwater music from Carnegie Hall, and sip from Park Hyatt New York branded water bottles in the hydrotherapy hot tub.

To bring me back down to earth post-shopping high, I experience the spa's signature treatment – a massage on a warm, sand quartz bed.

"Ooh," my massage therapist remarks kneading my knots. "Your arms and shoulders feel very tight. Have you been carrying a lot of bags?"

If only she knew…

WHERE TO SHOP

*Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 5th Avenue

Currently enjoying a major retail revival, Saks is "dreaming big" for holiday season. Expect elaborate window displays, thousands of twinkling lights and a hyperluxe gift section. $US60,000 ($A65,0050) Chanel watch, anyone?

saksfifthavenue.com

* MoMa Design Store, 44 West 53rd Street

Directly opposite the MoMa Museum, this is like a playroom for adults, packed with quirky design objects, jewellery and gifts. It's the ideal hunting ground for the person who has everything.

momastore.org

* Story, 144 10th Avenue

This retail space "changes like a gallery and sells things like a store". It's an ever-evolving pop-up for new retail concepts and the latest installation opened on November 5.

thisisstory.com

WHAT TO SEE

* Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe, Brooklyn Museum, 200 Eastern Parkway

Step across the bridge to Brooklyn to explore the evolution of women's footwear. The exhibition features more than 160 pairs of heavenly heels, including Christian Louboutin and Alexander McQueen. Runs until February 15, 2015. Suggested voluntary contribution of $US16 ($A17) for admission.

brooklynmuseum.org

* Coutourist walking tour

You may need to put on your flats for this historical tour that explores the secrets of Fifth Avenue. Discover the city's most influential designers and up-and-coming brands – and then shop them. $US75 ($A81) per person.

coutourist.com

WHERE TO EAT

* ABC Kitchen, 35 East 18th Street

Fuel a full-on shopping day with lunch or brunch at Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's popular hangout. The farm-to-table movement guarantees fresh menus that diversify to feature seasonal produce. Three course lunch menu: $US32 ($A34.60).

abchome.com/eat/abc-kitchen

* BG Restaurant, 5th Avenue 58th Street

For a more formal ladies-who-lunch setting with sweeping views of Central Park, book in at Bergdorf Goodman's restaurant. Head to the seventh floor of the department store to sip on Sheer Glamour champagne cocktails and try the Gotham salad speciality. Main approximately $US30 ($A32.46).

www.bergdorfgoodman.com

* Lisa Haynes was a guest of the Park Hyatt New York (parkhyattnewyork.com).