Calm and chaos in India

Calm and chaos in India
By admin


Aside from the sound of our boat gliding through the water, the lake is completely still.

The glimmering water is a mirror to the rolling hills, stone-carved temples and grand palaces glowing beneath a beautiful sunset.

Nestled among plump cushions on the bow of our little boat, I nibble canapes and sip iced tea.

I am in the middle of Lake Pichola in Udaipur on a sunset boat ride, watching the pelicans and cormorants fly back to their nests.

Actor Roger Moore found his way to this captivating city 30 years ago when playing James Bond in Octopussy. But this evening there are no blazing guns or MI6 agents to disturb the peace.

It's hard to believe I'm a world away from the bustling chaos, noise and pollution that characterises India.

I arrived in Udaipur expecting to find some of the old-world allure that seems to be fast disappearing from India's urban cities.

And I must say, I am not disappointed.

I had only seen glimpses of this picturesque city on cinema screens – most recently in soul-searching comedy flick The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel – but am instantly charmed by the decadent palaces and narrow gallis or lanes lined with haveli houses, bazaars and temples.

Located in western Rajasthan, Udaipur is also known as the City of Lakes and the Venice of the East thanks to its seven large lakes sprawled across the city.

The City Palace complex, home to the present king of Udaipur, Arvind Singh Mewar, overlooks Lake Pichola.

Our tour guide Rohan tells us the architectural grandeur of the palace is the result of local Rajasthani and Afghan-inspired Mughal styles, and is symbolic of the city's co-existing cultures.

Unlike Delhi and other neighbouring cities, Udaipur never fell into the hands of the Mughals and other foreign invaders.

"Our king remains unconquered, and hence he is a Maharana and not a Maharaja, like the rulers in other cities," says Rohan proudly.

Maharana is the title of the highest of hereditary monarchs.

As we make our way to City Palace Road, our bright black and yellow tuk tuk is greeted by camels and cows appearing out of nowhere at various crossroads.

We pass through shops filled with bright saris, embroidered sandals, colourful Rajasthani marionettes and silver jewellery.

The explosion of colour continues at Ganesh Handicraft Emporium.

Located behind Temple Square, the 350-year-old haveli looks unassuming on the outside but transforms into an Aladdin's cave brimming with vibrant Rajasthani textiles, wooden and stone-carved crafts and traditional paintings.

Further down the road is the Jagdish Temple, a large 17th century Hindu monument in the middle of the city.

I follow Rohan's recommendation and head over to Eklingji, a large Hindu temple complex on the outskirts of city.

I arrive just in time to take part in the aarti evening prayers session and receive blessings from the priest.

Afterwards I unwind at the luxurious Leela Palace hotel in Udaipur while admiring the spectacular view of the Aravalli mountains and Lake Pichola.

It's a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Delhi.

When I arrive in the capital, the beeping horns and noisy traffic are a shock to my system.

I nearly take a tumble as our driver slams the brakes to let a small boy cross a busy street, his arms laden with popular Bollywood magazines.

"There are three things anyone driving in India needs to have," our guide Aanchal tells us.

"Patience, a bit of good luck and excellent brakes!"

Sure enough, I begin to see her point as we weave through the traffic to overtake tuk tuks, rickshaws and bicycles, which share the dual carriageway with Bentleys, Mercedes and Tata Nanos.

Later we take a rickshaw ride through the narrow alleys of Chandni Chowk, one of the country's oldest and busiest markets.

Set up in the 17th century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan – who also built the Taj Mahal – the bazaar is known for its vibrant wedding wear, ornate jewellery, silverware and bespoke furniture.

Asia's largest spice market, Khari Baoli, can also be found here, along with a Baptist church, a Sikh temple and two mosques.

Nearby is Red Fort, or the Lal Quila, which takes its name from its burnt-red sandstone walls.

Next is a quick stop at Qutub Minar. Standing 73 metres tall, I imagine views from the top of Qutub Minar to be spectacular.

Unfortunately, though, the gates to the tower have been closed since a power failure in 1981 plunged its staircase into pitch-black darkness, resulting in a stampede that killed 45 people.

Despite the tragic incident, the Minar is still a popular tourist destination and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

According to the Ministry of Culture, it is the second most visited monument in India, after the Taj Mahal, with four million people flocking to it every year.

Delhi's crowded monuments and busy markets seem like a very different India to the spas and peaceful lakes of Udaipur.

But in one way or another, both cities stimulate the senses, showing just how diverse this country can be.

* The writer travelled as a guest of Leela Palace Hotels

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